Choosing and Using Cooking Fats
Cooking is largely an exercise in heat management, and the fat you use is the conductor. If you burn your fat, you ruin the flavor of the entire dish before the main ingredient even touches the pan.
Understand the smoke point.
The smoke point is the temperature at which a fat begins to break down and smoke, which introduces harsh, acrid notes into your food. Always match the fat to the thermal demands of your cooking method.
- Heavy-bottomed skillet
- Thermometer
- Glass storage jars
What goes in.
- RefinedAvocado oil, grapeseed oil, or high-oleic sunflower oil (for high heat)
- AnimalDuck fat, beef tallow, or clarified butter (for medium-high heat)
- Cold-pressedExtra virgin olive oil or finishing oils (for dressings and low heat)
Respect the shimmer
When heating oil, wait for it to shimmer and thin out across the pan surface before adding ingredients. If the oil is stationary and thick, your food will soak it up rather than sear, leading to greasy results.
The method.
High-heat searing
Use a refined oil with a smoke point above 400°F. If you see wisps of smoke, your pan is too hot; remove it from the flame immediately.
Sautéing and roasting
Choose fats like ghee or rendered animal fats that provide stability at medium heat while adding depth to the base of your dish.
Finishing and raw applications
Reserve expensive, aromatic cold-pressed oils for the very end. Heat strips them of their delicate character, so add them only after the food is off the fire.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Never throw fats down the drain; collect used bacon grease or tallow in a jar and keep it in the fridge for future pan-searing.
If your butter burns during sautéing, add a small splash of high-smoke point oil to the pan to stabilize the milk solids.
Store oils in a cool, dark cupboard away from the stove, as light and heat cause them to go rancid.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I reuse frying oil?
Yes, provided you strain it through a fine-mesh sieve or cheesecloth after every use and store it in the refrigerator.
Why does my olive oil taste bitter when I fry with it?
Extra virgin olive oil contains solids and polyphenols that burn quickly. It is meant for finishing, not for high-heat searing.
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