Stovetop Macaroni and Cheese
This is not the kind of pasta that sits in the oven until it dries out. By keeping it on the stovetop, you maintain a glossy, clinging sauce that coats every ridge of the noodles.
Freshly grated cheese is non-negotiable.
Pre-shredded cheese is coated in cellulose to keep it from clumping in the bag, which prevents it from melting into a smooth sauce. Buy a block and use a box grater.
- large pot for boiling
- medium heavy-bottomed saucepan
- whisk
- box grater
What goes in.
- 1 lbcavatappi or elbow macaroni
- 4 tbspunsalted butter
- 1/4 cupall-purpose flour
- 3 cupswhole milk, room temperature
- 8 ozsharp cheddar, freshly grated
- 4 ozgruyère, freshly grated
- 1 tspdry mustard powder
- to tastekosher salt and black pepper
Controlling the viscosity
Cook your flour and butter until the raw, pasty smell disappears, about two minutes. If you add your milk too quickly, you risk lumps; pour it in a thin, steady stream while whisking aggressively.
The method.
Boil the pasta
Cook the pasta in well-salted water until just shy of al dente. It should have a firm bite, as it will finish cooking in the sauce.
Make the base
In the saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook for two minutes, then slowly stream in the milk.
Thicken the sauce
Continue to cook, whisking occasionally, until the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Add the mustard powder, salt, and pepper.
Emulsify
Turn the heat to the lowest setting. Add the cheese one handful at a time, whisking until each addition is fully melted before adding the next.
Combine
Fold the drained pasta into the cheese sauce. Stir gently until every piece is covered.
Other turns to take.
Spiced Version
Add a pinch of cayenne or a few dashes of hot sauce to the cheese base for a subtle heat that cuts the richness.
Crusty Top
Transfer the finished dish to a baking dish, sprinkle with panko breadcrumbs and melted butter, and slide it under a broiler for two minutes.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Warm your milk in the microwave before adding it to the roux to help the sauce come together faster.
If the sauce looks too thick, stir in a tablespoon of hot pasta water to loosen it.
Never let the sauce boil once the cheese has been added, or the fats will separate.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use low-fat milk?
The fats in whole milk are necessary for the emulsification process; using anything leaner risks a grainy or thin sauce.
Why did my sauce turn grainy?
This happens when the cheese is heated too quickly or at too high a temperature. Always move to low heat or remove the pan from the burner entirely before adding your cheese.
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