Pan-Frying Thick-Cut Pork Chops
A chop thicker than an inch is a different beast than a thin cutlet. The goal is to avoid a gray, overcooked exterior while waiting for the center to finish, or worse, a raw middle behind a burnt crust.
Bring the meat to room temperature.
If you throw a cold, thick chop into a hot pan, the middle stays icy while the surface incinerates. Let them sit on the counter for 30 minutes before you start.
- Heavy-bottomed cast iron or stainless steel skillet
- Tongs
- Instant-read thermometer
- Wire cooling rack
What goes in.
- 4Bone-in pork chops, at least 1.5 inches thick
- 1 tbspHigh-smoke point oil (grapeseed or avocado)
- 2 tbspUnsalted butter
- 3Garlic cloves, smashed
- 2 sprigsFresh thyme or rosemary
- to tasteKosher salt and cracked black pepper
Mastering the temperature gradient
Sear aggressively over medium-high heat to develop a deep brown crust, then lower the heat and use butter-basting to conduct heat gently into the center.
The method.
Dry and season
Pat the chops bone-dry with paper towels. Moisture is the enemy of a good sear. Season liberally with salt and pepper on all sides, including the fat cap.
The hard sear
Heat the oil in your skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Lay the chops in, ensuring they don't crowd the pan. Sear for 4 minutes without moving them until a deep brown crust forms.
Flip and baste
Flip the chops. Add butter, garlic, and herbs to the skillet. Once the butter foams, tilt the pan slightly and spoon the hot, aromatic butter over the chops repeatedly for another 3-4 minutes.
Test and rest
Insert a thermometer into the thickest part; pull the chops from the heat when they reach 140°F. Transfer to a rack and let them rest for at least 8 minutes. The carry-over heat will bring them to a finished state.
Other turns to take.
Brined Chops
Submerge chops in a salt-sugar water bath for 4 hours beforehand to ensure the thickest cuts stay succulent.
Pan-Sauce Finish
After removing the chops, deglaze the skillet with a splash of dry white wine or stock, scraping up the browned bits, then mounting with a knob of cold butter.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Always stand the chops up on their fat edge for a minute to render the strip of fat; it creates a crisp, golden rind.
If the pan starts to smoke excessively, turn the heat down; you want brown, not black.
Use a wire rack to rest the meat so the bottom doesn't get soggy in its own juices.
The ones that keep coming up.
How do I know if they are done without a thermometer?
It is difficult with thick cuts. Press the meat with your thumb; a medium-done chop should have a slight resistance, similar to the fleshy pad below your thumb when your fingers are relaxed.
Why do the chops curl while cooking?
The membrane on the edge of the chop tightens when it hits the heat. Make a small vertical nick in the edge fat with a knife before cooking to prevent this.
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