Classic Fish Cakes
A good fish cake shouldn't be mushy or overwhelmed by filler. It should taste primarily of fish, brightened by herbs and held together by just enough starch.
Temperature control is your primary tool
Use cold, day-old mashed potatoes if you have them. Warm potatoes will cause the cakes to fall apart in the pan; they need to be chilled to hold their shape during the sear.
- large heavy-bottomed skillet
- potato masher
- fine mesh strainer
- rimmed baking sheet
What goes in.
- 1 lbcod or haddock fillets
- 1 lbrusset potatoes, peeled and quartered
- 1/2 cupfresh parsley, finely chopped
- 2green onions, whites and greens thinly sliced
- 1large egg, lightly beaten
- 1 cuppanko breadcrumbs
- 3 tbspunsalted butter
- 2 tbspneutral oil
Handle with care
Do not overmix the fish and potato. Gently fold the ingredients together until just combined to keep the fish in large, recognizable flakes rather than a paste.
The method.
Boil the potatoes
Cook the potatoes in salted water until tender enough to break with a fork, about 15 minutes. Drain thoroughly, let them steam dry in the colander for five minutes, then mash until smooth.
Poach the fish
Bring an inch of water to a simmer in a pan. Add the fish, cover, and cook for 4-5 minutes until the flesh turns opaque and flakes easily. Remove, drain on paper towels, and let cool.
Mix the base
Combine the mashed potatoes, flaked fish, parsley, green onions, and half the beaten egg in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Shape into eight patties about an inch thick.
Bread the cakes
Lightly brush the outside of each cake with the remaining egg, then press into the panko until evenly coated. Refrigerate for 20 minutes to set the structure.
Sear
Heat the butter and oil in the skillet over medium-high heat. Place the cakes in the pan—do not crowd them. Cook for 4 minutes per side until the panko is deep brown and the center is heated through.
Other turns to take.
Smoked Fish
Replace half the white fish with smoked haddock for a deeper, saltier profile.
Lemon and Caper
Fold in one tablespoon of finely minced capers and the zest of a whole lemon for a sharper finish.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Pat the poached fish dry with paper towels; excess moisture is the enemy of a crisp crust.
If the mixture feels too loose to shape, add a tablespoon of flour or more panko.
Use a fish spatula to turn them; the wider surface prevents the edges from breaking during the flip.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use leftover cooked fish?
Yes, leftover grilled or baked white fish works well, provided it isn't heavily seasoned with strong spices.
Can I bake these instead of frying?
You can, but you will sacrifice the texture. Brush them with melted butter and bake at 400°F (200°C) for 20 minutes, turning halfway through.
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