Choosing and Using Stock
The difference between a flat dish and one that lingers on the palate is often found in the liquid used to build it. Understanding when to use a specific base changes the architecture of your plate.
Know your extraction
Stock requires time to pull flavor from collagen and minerals; it is not a rush job. Aim for a gentle tremble on the surface of the water, never a rolling boil, which clouds the liquid.
- 8-quart stockpot
- fine-mesh sieve
- ladle
- chilled storage containers
What goes in.
- 4 lbchicken carcasses or beef marrow bones
- 2yellow onions, halved
- 3carrots, cut into large chunks
- 2celery stalks, left whole
- 1 tspblack peppercorns
- 3parsley sprigs
Controlled Simmer
To keep your stock clear, skim the gray foam from the surface during the first twenty minutes of simmering. Maintain a low heat so the liquid barely ripples.
The method.
Roast
Place bones in a roasting pan at 400°F for 45 minutes until deeply browned.
Simmer
Transfer bones and vegetables to a pot. Cover with cold water by two inches. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to keep it at a bare tremble.
Extract
Simmer uncovered for at least 3 hours. Add water if the level drops significantly below the bones.
Strain
Pass the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl. Discard solids.
Cool
Chill the liquid immediately in an ice bath before moving to the refrigerator.
Other turns to take.
Vegetable Stock
Omit bones. Use leeks, mushrooms, fennel, and parsnips. Simmer for only 45 minutes to prevent bitterness.
Brown Stock
Roast bones and vegetables with a tablespoon of tomato paste before adding water to deepen the hue and intensity.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Always start with cold water; it draws out proteins and flavors more effectively than hot water.
Avoid adding salt during the simmering phase; reduce the stock first, then season so the salt levels don't become overpowering.
Store in small portions so you only thaw what you need.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why does my stock turn into jelly when cold?
That is the mark of a well-made stock. It means the collagen from the bones has successfully rendered, which provides a silky mouthfeel to your finished dishes.
Can I reuse the bones?
Once they have been simmered for hours, the bones have given up their flavor and structure. It is best to discard them.
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