Making Meat Stock from Scratch
Good stock is the foundation of every soup, braise, and pan sauce you will ever make. It is less about a specific list of ingredients and more about managing the heat to keep the liquid clear and the extraction steady.
The clarity of your final stock depends on the start.
Always start with cold water to ensure a gradual extraction of flavor. If you use boiling water immediately, you will seal the meat and keep the flavor inside the bones.
- 8-quart stockpot
- Fine-mesh sieve
- Ladle
- Cheesecloth
What goes in.
- 4 lbbeef or veal bones, preferably knuckle or marrow
- 1 lbmeaty soup bones or oxtail
- 2large yellow onions, unpeeled and halved
- 3carrots, scrubbed and cut into large chunks
- 2celery stalks, leaves attached
- 1 tspblack peppercorns
- 3fresh bay leaves
- 1bunch of parsley stems
Controlling the Simmer
Keep the heat at the absolute lowest setting possible. If the stock boils vigorously, the fat will emulsify into the liquid, turning it opaque and cloudy.
The method.
Roast the bones
Arrange the bones in a roasting pan and bake at 425°F for 45 minutes until deep brown to develop color and depth.
Combine
Transfer the bones and any rendered fat to your stockpot. Add the vegetables and cover with cold water by at least two inches.
Initial skim
Bring the pot to a very slow rise in temperature. As gray foam collects on the surface, skim it away with a ladle until the liquid is clear.
Simmer
Add the aromatics and lower the heat to a bare tremor. Let it cook uncovered for at least 4 hours.
Strain and cool
Pass the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth into a clean bowl. Discard the solids and chill the liquid immediately.
Other turns to take.
Brown Chicken Stock
Substitute chicken backs and wings for beef bones and reduce roasting time to 30 minutes.
Roasted Vegetable Stock
Omit meat entirely and roast a mix of parsnips, leeks, and onions until charred before simmering.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Never add salt during the simmer, as it will concentrate too much as the liquid evaporates.
Chill the stock in the refrigerator overnight to allow the fat to solidify into a hard disk on top, which is then easy to lift off.
If you have extra space in the freezer, pour the finished, chilled stock into ice cube trays for easy portioning later.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use pressure cookers?
Yes, but use only 75% of the water called for as evaporation is minimal. Expect a different depth of flavor, as the high heat changes the way collagen breaks down.
Why is my stock greasy?
Usually, this happens if you boil the pot rather than simmering. Skimming the surface regularly during the first hour helps prevent this.
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