Hand-Churned Vanilla Ice Cream
This is a rhythmic process. You are building a custard, chilling it until it is thick as cream, and then spending twenty minutes turning a handle. It is the only way to get that specific, old-fashioned weight.
The ice-to-salt ratio is your engine
Your custard must be ice-cold before you start churning, or you will be cranking for hours to no result. Keep your rock salt handy; you will need more than you think.
- hand-crank ice cream maker
- heavy-bottomed saucepan
- fine mesh sieve
- large metal mixing bowl
- whisk
What goes in.
- 2 cupsheavy cream
- 1 cupwhole milk
- 3/4 cupgranulated sugar
- 5large egg yolks
- 1 tbsppure vanilla extract
- 1 pinchkosher salt
- 4 lbcrushed ice
- 1.5 cupscoarse rock salt
Tempering yolks
Slowly drizzle a small ladle of the hot cream into the beaten yolks while whisking constantly. This brings the temperature up gradually so you don't end up with scrambled eggs.
The method.
Make the custard
Heat cream, milk, and half the sugar in a saucepan until steaming. In a bowl, whisk yolks and the remaining sugar. Temper the yolks, then return everything to the pan over low heat.
Thicken
Stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the mixture coats the back of the spoon. Run a finger through the coating; if the path stays clean, it is done. Remove from heat immediately.
Chill thoroughly
Stir in vanilla and salt. Strain into a bowl, cover directly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least four hours. It must be cold to the touch.
Pack the bucket
Place the canister in the machine. Layer the ice and rock salt around it. A 3-to-1 ratio of ice to salt is what drives the freezing.
Churn
Pour in the custard. Crank at a steady pace. It will start easy, then grow heavy as the ice cream sets. Stop when the handle becomes difficult to turn.
Other turns to take.
Vanilla Bean
Split one whole vanilla bean and scrape the seeds into the cream while heating; leave the pod in while steeping.
Salted Caramel Swirl
Once the churning is done, fold in a chilled, thick caramel sauce in ribbons before transferring to the freezer.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Don't rush the custard; if it boils, the eggs will curdle and the texture will be gritty.
If the machine feels stuck, clear the drain hole on the side of the bucket to let the brine escape.
Transfer the churned ice cream to a container and freeze for another two hours to 'ripen' the texture before scooping.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why did my ice cream turn out icy?
Usually because the custard base wasn't cold enough before churning, or the ice melted too fast without creating a firm set.
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