Making Harissa Paste
A good harissa isn't just spicy; it’s an exercise in balancing the sharp bite of dried peppers with the earthiness of toasted seeds. Once you have a jar of this in the fridge, you stop needing to think about seasoning for roasted vegetables or braised meats.
Mind the chiles
Wear gloves when handling the dried peppers. The capsaicin will linger on your skin and in the air; keep your kitchen ventilated while toasting.
- Heavy-bottomed skillet
- Food processor
- Rubber gloves
- Glass storage jar
What goes in.
- 3 ozdried guajillo or pasilla chiles, stems and seeds removed
- 6 clovesgarlic, peeled
- 1 tbspcoriander seeds
- 1 tbspcaraway seeds
- 1 tspcumin seeds
- 1 tspsea salt
- 1/2 cupextra virgin olive oil
- 1 tbsplemon juice
Slow-stream oil integration
Add the olive oil in a thin, steady stream while the food processor is running. This creates a stable paste that won't separate and helps the aromatics coat the tongue evenly.
The method.
Rehydrate the chiles
Cover the chiles with boiling water in a bowl. Let them soak for 20 minutes until they feel soft and pliable, then drain, reserving a tablespoon of the soaking liquid.
Toast the spices
Place coriander, caraway, and cumin seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat. Toast for 2 minutes until they smell nutty, then grind them into a fine powder using a mortar and pestle.
Blend
Combine the softened chiles, ground spices, garlic, salt, and lemon juice in the food processor. Pulse until broken down.
Emulsify
With the processor running, slowly pour in the olive oil. Stop when the texture is smooth, thick, and consistent, adding the reserved soaking liquid if the mixture is too tight.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If you prefer more heat, swap half the guajillo chiles for dried arbol chiles.
Always store the paste under a thin 'cap' of olive oil in the jar to prevent oxidation.
Wait 24 hours before using; the flavors need time to marry in the fridge.
The ones that keep coming up.
How long does it stay fresh?
Kept in an airtight glass jar in the refrigerator, it will maintain its quality for about three weeks.
Why did my paste turn bitter?
You likely burned the seeds in the skillet. They only need to be toasted until fragrant—if they turn dark brown, start over.