Making Dulce de Leche
This is a study in heat and time. When you reduce milk and sugar, you are chasing a deep, toasted color that bridges the gap between liquid and candy.
Watch the temperature to keep the texture smooth.
If the heat is too high, the milk proteins will curdle into gritty lumps rather than a uniform silk. Keep the simmer gentle.
- Heavy-bottomed stainless steel saucepan
- Whisk
- Rubber spatula
What goes in.
- 1 quartwhole milk
- 1 cupgranulated sugar
- 1/2 tspbaking soda
- 1 tspvanilla extract
Maintaining the simmer
Keep the milk at a low, consistent bubble. If you push the heat, you will burn the bottom before the flavor develops.
The method.
Combine the ingredients
Whisk the milk, sugar, and baking soda together in a heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat until the sugar dissolves completely.
Bring to a simmer
Let the mixture reach a gentle boil, then immediately turn the heat to low. The baking soda will cause it to foam; stir this back into the liquid.
The long reduction
Simmer uncovered for about two hours. Stir every fifteen minutes, making sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the pan to prevent crusting.
Monitor the color
The milk will transition from white to pale gold, and finally to a deep amber. Once it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, remove it from the heat.
Finish and cool
Stir in the vanilla. Transfer to a clean glass jar and let it cool completely; it will thicken significantly as it reaches room temperature.
Other turns to take.
Coffee infused
Add one tablespoon of instant espresso powder to the milk at the start for a darker, more complex profile.
Salted
Stir in a pinch of fleur de sel once the mixture has been removed from the heat to cut the sweetness.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Use a stainless steel pan rather than non-stick so you can clearly see the color change against the metal.
If you accidentally create lumps, pass the finished sauce through a fine-mesh sieve while it is still warm.
Avoid scraping the very bottom of the pan when pouring into the jar; burnt flecks from the bottom will ruin the texture of the batch.
The ones that keep coming up.
How long will this stay good?
Stored in a sealed glass jar in the refrigerator, it will remain fresh for up to one month.
Why use baking soda?
The baking soda creates an alkaline environment that accelerates the Maillard reaction, which is responsible for the deep color and characteristic toasted flavor.
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