Stovetop Refried Beans
Forget the canned variety. True refried beans require only a handful of pantry staples and a heavy skillet, relying on the quality of your fat and the patience to let the beans fry rather than just simmer.
Start with properly cooked, soft beans.
If you are using beans you cooked from dry, ensure they are soft enough to crush against the roof of your mouth before you begin. If you are using canned, rinse them thoroughly to remove the metallic starch from the liquid.
- Heavy-bottomed cast iron skillet
- Potato masher or heavy wooden spoon
- Slotted spoon
What goes in.
- 3 cupspinto beans, cooked and drained
- 3 tbsplard or bacon drippings
- 1/2 cupwhite onion, finely diced
- 1/2 cupreserved bean cooking liquid or water
- 1 tspfine sea salt
Frying the beans
Do not skip frying the beans in the fat before adding liquid. This toasts the exterior of the beans, creating a deeper, roasted flavor that defines the dish.
The method.
Heat the fat
Place your cast iron skillet over medium heat. Add the lard or bacon drippings and allow it to melt until it shimmers.
Sweat the aromatics
Add the diced onion to the fat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens and turns translucent, about 5 minutes.
Sear the beans
Add the pinto beans to the skillet. Stir them to coat in the fat and let them fry for about 3 minutes, letting the skins slightly blister.
Mash and hydrate
Add the salt and half of the liquid. Use your masher to break the beans down. Continue adding liquid in small splashes until you achieve your preferred consistency.
Reduce
Continue cooking over low heat for 5 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent scorching on the bottom of the pan.
Other turns to take.
Spiced
Add a teaspoon of ground cumin or a minced jalapeño to the onions during the sweating stage.
Cheesy
Fold in a handful of shredded Oaxaca or Monterey Jack cheese once you remove the skillet from the heat.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Use a potato masher for a rustic, chunky texture or a food processor if you want a completely smooth, restaurant-style puree.
Bacon drippings provide a deeper, smokier foundation than vegetable oil or lard.
If the beans look dry after they sit, add a tablespoon of water or broth to loosen them before serving.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use black beans instead?
Yes, the technique remains identical, though black beans are generally starchier and may require slightly more liquid.
How do I avoid a scorched bottom?
Keep the heat low once the beans are mashed and stir constantly. A heavy-bottomed skillet is your best defense against hot spots.
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