How to Prepare Dried Chiles
Working with dried chiles is about unlocking dormant layers of heat and earthiness. A raw, brittle chile offers little to a dish, but one properly toasted and soaked becomes the essential foundation for stews, moles, and salsas.
Mind the dust and the heat.
Wear gloves if you are sensitive to capsaicin, and never lean over the pan while toasting; the rising vapors will irritate your eyes and throat.
- Heavy-bottomed skillet
- Tongs
- Bowl
- Blender
What goes in.
- 4-6 ozDried chiles (Ancho, Guajillo, Pasilla, or Arbol)
- 2 cupsNear-boiling water
The Three-Second Toast
Toast only until the chile changes color slightly and releases a sharp, punchy aroma. If it turns black or curls up rapidly, you have burned it, and it will taste bitter.
The method.
Prep the chiles
Wipe the chiles clean with a damp cloth. Use kitchen shears to snip off the stems and shake out the bulk of the seeds.
Toast in the skillet
Heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Lay the chiles flat. Press them with tongs for 3 to 5 seconds per side until they become fragrant and pliable.
Soak
Place the toasted chiles in a bowl and cover with near-boiling water. Weight them down with a small plate so they stay submerged. Let them soak for 10 to 15 minutes.
Check for readiness
The chiles are ready when they feel like soft leather or wet silk. Drain the water and discard it, as it is often bitter.
Blend
Place the rehydrated chiles into a blender with fresh liquid—broth, vinegar, or citrus juice—and process until the mixture is completely smooth.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Discard the soaking water unless the recipe explicitly instructs otherwise; it frequently carries the harsh, acrid notes of the dried skins.
If you want less heat, ensure you remove all the inner white ribs and veins where the majority of the capsaicin is concentrated.
For a deeper, roasted flavor, char the chiles over an open gas flame for 2 seconds instead of using the skillet.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I toast the chiles in oil?
It is safer to toast them dry. Oil can cause the chiles to burn instantly, and the intense heat of the oil creates harsh, spicy fumes that fill the kitchen.
What if the chile skin doesn't blend smooth?
If you are left with tough flecks of skin, pass the blended sauce through a fine-mesh sieve or a food mill before adding it to your pot.
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