Classic Semolina Bougatsa
This is a study in texture: the audible shatter of thin phyllo giving way to a velvety, dense custard. It is best enjoyed when the steam still rises from the center.
Mind the phyllo
Phyllo dries out in seconds. Keep a damp—not wet—kitchen towel over the stack while you work, and move quickly once the sheets are exposed to air.
- 9x13 inch baking pan
- pastry brush
- heavy-bottomed saucepan
- whisk
What goes in.
- 1 lbphyllo dough, thawed
- 1 cupfine semolina
- 1 cupgranulated sugar
- 4 cupswhole milk
- 1/2 cupunsalted butter, melted (plus extra for pan)
- 3large eggs
- 1 tspvanilla bean paste
- to tastepowdered sugar and ground cinnamon for serving
Stirring until ribbon-thick
The custard must be cooked until it leaves a distinct trail when you drag your whisk through it; if it is too loose, the pastry will turn soggy.
The method.
Prepare the custard
Heat milk and sugar in a saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in semolina slowly to avoid lumps. Cook until thickened, then remove from heat. Temper in the beaten eggs and vanilla, whisking constantly so they do not scramble.
Layer the base
Brush your pan with melted butter. Lay down half the sheets of phyllo, brushing each individual sheet with butter as you stack them. Ensure the edges hang over the side of the pan.
Fill and close
Pour the custard into the center, spreading it evenly. Fold the overhanging phyllo edges over the custard, then butter the remaining sheets and place them on top, tucking the edges neatly into the pan.
Score and bake
Use a sharp knife to score the top layers into squares—do not cut all the way through the bottom yet. Bake at 375°F (190°C) until the top is deep gold and crisp, about 35 to 40 minutes.
Finish
Remove from the oven, let it sit for 10 minutes, then finish cutting through the scored lines. Dust heavily with powdered sugar and cinnamon.
Other turns to take.
Cheese Bougatsa
Replace the semolina custard with a mixture of crumbled feta, mizithra cheese, and a beaten egg for a savory version.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Use a real pastry brush; silicone brushes often tear delicate phyllo sheets.
If your custard develops small lumps, pass it through a fine-mesh sieve before pouring it onto the phyllo.
Do not skip the scoring step before baking; if you try to cut it after it is crisp, the pastry will shatter unevenly.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I assemble this the night before?
It is best baked immediately after assembly. The phyllo will lose its crispness if it sits in the refrigerator with the custard inside.
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