Cooking Winter Greens: Kale, Collards, and Mustard
The frost-hardened leaves of winter greens are sturdy. They demand more than a quick flash in a pan, needing heat and patience to become supple and mellow.
Strip the spine
The thick stems will remain woody and bitter even after cooking. Tear the leaf away from the center rib before you begin chopping.
- large cast-iron skillet or dutch oven
- chef's knife
- tongs
What goes in.
- 2 lbwinter greens, such as collards or kale
- 3 tbsprendered bacon fat or olive oil
- 3 clovesgarlic, smashed
- 1/2 cupstock or water
- to tastered pepper flakes and sea salt
Steam-braising
After the initial sear, adding a small amount of liquid and covering the pan traps the steam, which is the only way to soften the thick cell walls of winter-harvested greens.
The method.
Prep the leaves
Fold each leaf in half and cut or tear away the center stem. Stack the leaves, roll them like a cigar, and slice into thick ribbons.
Sear the base
Heat the fat in your skillet over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and pepper flakes; once the garlic begins to turn golden, add the greens in large handfuls.
Develop color
Toss the greens constantly with tongs for three minutes until they start to darken and shrink in the pan.
Steam
Pour in the stock, immediately cover the pan with a tight lid, and reduce the heat to low. Let them cook undisturbed for 15 to 20 minutes.
Finish
Remove the lid. If there is excess liquid, increase the heat and stir until it evaporates. Season with salt only at the very end.
Other turns to take.
Acid finish
Add a splash of apple cider vinegar right before serving to brighten the earthiness of the greens.
Softened onion
Sweat a diced onion in the fat until translucent before adding the greens to create a sweeter foundation.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Always wash greens in a large bowl of cold water, swishing them around to let the grit sink to the bottom.
If using kale, the leaves will be done in half the time of collards.
Don't discard the stems; chop them into tiny pieces and add them to the pan three minutes before the leaves to ensure they soften.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why are my greens still tough?
You likely didn't cook them long enough or didn't add enough liquid for the steam to do the work. Add another splash of water and cover the pan for five more minutes.
Can I use butter?
Butter can burn over the long cooking time required for winter greens. Stick to fats with higher smoke points like bacon fat or olive oil.
How real cooks make it.
No one’s shared their version yet. Be the first to put your kitchen on the map.
Cook this your way?
Share your version — your steps, your story. We’ll feature it right here.
Add your recipe