Making Mayonnaise by Hand
There is a specific weight to hand-whisked mayonnaise that machine-made versions never achieve. It is not about speed; it is about the patience required to coax the oil into the yolk, one drop at a time, until the emulsion takes hold.
Mind the temperature of your ingredients.
Ensure the egg yolk and the mustard are at room temperature before you begin. If the ingredients are cold, the oil will resist emulsification.
- Heavy ceramic or glass mixing bowl
- Balloon whisk
- Damp kitchen towel
- Measuring cup with a spout
What goes in.
- 1large egg yolk, room temperature
- 1 tspDijon mustard
- 1 tbspfresh lemon juice or white wine vinegar
- 1 cupneutral oil, such as grapeseed or sunflower
- 1 pinchfine sea salt
The drop-by-drop rule
The first quarter-cup of oil is the foundation; it must be added literally drop-by-drop. Only once the mixture turns opaque and starts to thicken can you increase the flow to a very thin, constant trickle.
The method.
Stabilize your bowl
Twist your damp kitchen towel into a ring and set your bowl inside it. This prevents the bowl from sliding while you whisk.
Whisk the base
Add the yolk, mustard, and salt to the bowl. Whisk vigorously for thirty seconds until the yolk turns a shade lighter.
Add the initial drops
Add a few drops of oil. Whisk until fully incorporated. Repeat this process until you have used about two tablespoons of oil and the mixture looks like thick custard.
The steady stream
Begin adding the remaining oil in a slow, hair-thin stream while whisking constantly in one direction. Stop adding oil if it pools on the surface; whisk until the pool disappears before adding more.
Finish with acid
Once all oil is incorporated, whisk in the lemon juice or vinegar. The mayonnaise will thin slightly and turn a brighter, lighter white.
Other turns to take.
Garlic Aioli
Mash one small clove of garlic into a paste with the salt before adding the egg yolk.
Herb Mayonnaise
Fold in two tablespoons of finely minced fresh chives or tarragon after the final step.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If the emulsion breaks and separates, do not discard it. Place a fresh egg yolk in a clean bowl and slowly whisk the broken mixture into the new yolk as if it were oil.
Do not use extra virgin olive oil for the entire quantity, as its strong flavor can overwhelm the delicate egg. Use a 1:3 ratio of olive oil to neutral oil if you prefer that profile.
Store in an airtight jar in the back of the refrigerator for up to three days.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why did my mayonnaise turn into liquid?
The oil was added too quickly for the yolk to absorb it. Slow down your additions and ensure the bowl is anchored so you can maintain a consistent whisking speed.
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