Selecting Artisan Bread
A good loaf tells its history through its skin and its weight. You are looking for a baker who respects the time it takes for dough to mature, which manifests in the structural integrity of the finished product.
Look past the aesthetics.
A loaf might look rustic, but that often hides poor fermentation. Use your hands to interrogate the bread before you buy it.
- your hands
- a serrated knife
Listen to the crumb
Gently squeeze the loaf. A proper loaf will push back against your fingers, while the air pockets should provide a distinct, elastic spring.
The method.
Check the weight
Pick up the loaf. It should feel heavier than it looks. A light, airy loaf often signals that the dough was rushed through proofing.
Inspect the crust
Look for caramelization. A deep, dark brown, almost mahogany crust indicates a well-developed flavor profile. Pale, yellow crusts are often underbaked.
Tap the base
Turn the loaf over and tap the bottom with your knuckles. You want a hollow, resonant thud. If it sounds flat or soft, the moisture content is too high or the center is doughy.
Examine the cut face
If buying by the slice, look for an irregular 'open' crumb. Large, uneven holes show that the gluten was strong enough to trap gas during a slow rise.
Other turns to take.
Sourdough
Look for a blistered surface and a sour, lactic scent; the blisters are evidence of a long, cold fermentation.
Rye
These should feel denser and hold a damp, earthy scent. The crust is usually thinner and less jagged than wheat-based boules.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Avoid bread displayed in sealed plastic bags; the crust will lose its crispness and become rubbery.
If the flour on the bottom of the loaf is burnt or black, it indicates a dirty oven deck.
Ask for the 'bake date.' Bread is best between 6 and 24 hours after it leaves the oven.
The ones that keep coming up.
Does a thicker crust mean the bread is stale?
No, a thick, tough crust is a sign of a strong, long-baked loaf that will protect the moisture inside for several days.
What if the loaf has holes that are all the same size?
That usually means the bread was made with industrial yeast and a short rise, lacking the complexity of long-fermented dough.
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