Making Real Stock and Broth
A good pot of liquid is the foundation of almost everything you will cook. It is about patience and extraction, waiting for the collagen in the bones to break down or the volatile oils in the vegetables to marry with the water.
Control the clarity
The secret to a clean-tasting stock is never letting it reach a rolling boil. Keep it at a gentle simmer to prevent the fat from emulsifying and turning the liquid cloudy.
- 8-quart stockpot
- fine-mesh strainer
- cheesecloth
- ladle
What goes in.
- 4 lbbeef or chicken bones (knuckles, necks, or carcasses)
- 2large carrots, roughly chopped
- 2yellow onions, halved with skins left on
- 3celery stalks, roughly chopped
- 1head of garlic, halved crosswise
- 1 bunchfresh thyme, parsley, and bay leaves
- 1 tbspblack peppercorns
The Skimming Ritual
Within the first thirty minutes of a simmer, gray foam will rise to the surface. Use a wide spoon to lift this off; it is composed of coagulated proteins and impurities that will muddy the flavor if allowed to boil back in.
The method.
Roast the bones
Spread bones on a baking sheet and roast at 400°F until dark brown, about 45 minutes. This adds deep color and charred flavor.
Combine
Place bones and aromatics into the stockpot. Cover with cold water by at least two inches. Starting with cold water is essential for extracting the maximum amount of flavor.
Simmer gently
Bring the pot to a very low simmer. Maintain this for at least 4 hours for chicken, or up to 12 hours for beef. Bubbles should lazily break the surface, not bounce.
Strain
Remove the large solids with a slotted spoon. Pour the remaining liquid through a fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth into a clean container.
Chill and degrease
Cool the stock completely in the refrigerator. A layer of fat will solidify on top, which you can easily lift off and discard before using.
Other turns to take.
Vegetable Stock
Omit bones entirely. Focus on earthy vegetables like mushrooms, leeks, and tomatoes; simmer for only 45 minutes to prevent the mixture from becoming bitter.
Fish Fumet
Use white fish heads and bones. Simmer for only 20 to 30 minutes, as longer will result in a sharp, unpleasant flavor.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Never add salt during the simmering process; if you reduce the stock later, the salt will concentrate and become overpowering.
Save your vegetable scraps in a freezer bag until you have enough to fill a pot for a quick stock.
Stock freezes well in ice cube trays, giving you portioned amounts to add to sauces or grains later.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why is my stock cloudy?
You likely let it boil too hard or didn't skim the foam early enough. While it affects appearance, it usually doesn't ruin the flavor.
Can I reuse the bones?
If the bones are still structurally sound, you can cover them with fresh water and herbs for a second, weaker extraction often called remouillage.
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