Rich Mushroom Ragu
This sauce relies on patience rather than complexity. When the mushrooms stop steaming and begin to fry in the pan, they concentrate into a base that provides the structure for the entire meal.
Commit to the browning process.
If you crowd the pan or stop cooking before the mushrooms turn dark brown, the sauce will be watery and lack depth. Take the time to drive the liquid out early.
- Large heavy-bottomed skillet or Dutch oven
- Chef's knife
- Wooden spoon
What goes in.
- 1.5 lbmixed mushrooms (cremini, shiitake, or oyster), finely minced
- 1yellow onion, finely diced
- 3garlic cloves, minced
- 2 tbsptomato paste
- 1/2 cupdry red wine
- 1 cupvegetable or mushroom stock
- 2 tbspolive oil
- 1 tspfresh thyme leaves
- to tastekosher salt and black pepper
Driving out the moisture
Keep the heat high until the mushrooms sizzle rather than steam. You are looking for a dark, mahogany color on the bottom of the pan before adding aromatics.
The method.
Prepare the mushrooms
Pulse the mushrooms in a food processor or mince by hand until they resemble the texture of coarse ground meat.
Brown the base
Heat olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms are browned and beginning to stick to the bottom.
Aromatics
Add the onion to the pan. Cook until translucent. Stir in the garlic and tomato paste, cooking for 2 minutes until the paste darkens slightly.
Deglaze
Pour in the wine. Scrape the brown bits off the bottom of the pan with your spoon. Let it simmer until the wine has almost fully evaporated.
Simmer
Pour in the stock and add the thyme. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 15-20 minutes until the liquid has reduced into a thick, clinging sauce. Season with salt and pepper.
Other turns to take.
Creamy finish
Stir in a tablespoon of heavy cream or butter at the very end to round out the sharpness of the wine.
Dried mushroom boost
Rehydrate an ounce of dried porcini mushrooms in hot water; chop them and add them to the pan along with the strained soaking liquid for an intense earthiness.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Use a wide pan to ensure the mushrooms have enough surface area to brown quickly.
Do not salt the mushrooms until they have browned; salt draws out water and will stall the browning process.
Serve over wide, flat pasta like pappardelle or tagliatelle to hold the texture.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use button mushrooms?
You can, but they have a higher water content and less flavor. If using them, increase the browning time to ensure you get a deep color.
What if I don't want to use wine?
Substitute the wine with an extra splash of stock and a teaspoon of balsamic vinegar to provide the necessary acidity.
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