Making a Dark Roux
The difference between a blonde roux and a dark roux is time and nerve. Once you push past the initial nuttiness, you are essentially carbonizing the flour, which removes its thickening power but introduces a robust depth of flavor that cannot be replicated elsewhere.
Commit to the station
This process requires your absolute attention; the jump from dark mahogany to burnt, acrid black happens in seconds.
- Heavy-bottomed cast iron skillet or Dutch oven
- Long-handled wooden spoon
- Whisk
What goes in.
- 1 cupAll-purpose flour
- 1 cupNeutral oil with high smoke point, such as grapeseed or canola
Maintaining constant motion
Use a wooden spoon to sweep the entire surface of the pot. If the flour settles, it will scorch instantly, ruining the batch.
The method.
Combine the ingredients
Heat the oil over medium-low heat in your skillet. Whisk in the flour until smooth and no lumps remain.
Begin the steady cook
Switch to your wooden spoon. Stir continuously, scraping the bottom and sides. The mixture will transition from pale yellow to a peanut-butter tan over the first 15 minutes.
Manage the heat
As the roux darkens, reduce heat slightly. If you see tiny black specks, remove from heat immediately; that is burnt flour, and the roux is lost.
Reach the target color
Continue stirring until the mixture reaches a deep, dark brown, similar to the color of dark cocoa powder. This can take anywhere from 30 to 45 minutes depending on your burner.
Other turns to take.
Oven Roux
Whisk ingredients in a baking dish and bake at 350°F (175°C), stirring every 10 minutes. It takes longer but reduces the risk of burning and removes the need for constant stirring.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Never walk away from the stove; a dark roux does not tolerate distractions.
If your roux starts smoking, it is burning. Take it off the heat and keep stirring until the pan cools.
Have your trinity (onions, celery, bell pepper) chopped and ready, as adding them to the hot roux will stop the cooking process immediately.
The ones that keep coming up.
How do I know if I have burned it?
If you smell a sharp, bitter, or acrid odor, it is burnt. There is no salvaging this; start over with a clean pan.
Can I use butter instead of oil?
Butter contains milk solids that burn at the high temperatures required for a dark roux. Use a neutral oil for the best results.