Making Proper Stock
A reliable stock is the difference between a kitchen that relies on shortcuts and one that builds layers of depth from the start. It is less of a recipe and more of a commitment to patience.
Cold water is the secret to clarity.
Always start with cold water to ensure a slow rise in temperature, which allows proteins to coagulate into large solids that are easily strained out later.
- 10-quart heavy-bottomed stockpot
- Fine-mesh chinois or cheesecloth
- Large ladle
- Wide-mouth funnel
What goes in.
- 4 lbbeef or veal bones, roasted
- 1 lbmirepoix (2 parts onion, 1 part carrot, 1 part celery, cut into chunks)
- 1bouquet garni (thyme sprigs, parsley stems, 2 bay leaves, tied with string)
- 1 tbspwhole black peppercorns
- 1 galcold filtered water
The Simmer Threshold
Maintain a simmer where only one or two bubbles break the surface every few seconds. If the liquid reaches a rolling boil, the fats will emulsify into the water and ruin the clarity.
The method.
Blanch or roast
Roast bones at 400°F (200°C) until deep mahogany for a rich, dark stock, or blanch in boiling water for 5 minutes for a clean, pale chicken stock.
Combine
Place bones in the cold pot and cover with cold water by at least two inches. Bring to a very slow simmer over medium-low heat.
Skim
As the temperature rises, grey foam will collect on the surface. Use your ladle to clear this scum away repeatedly until the liquid looks clean.
Aromatize
Add the mirepoix, bouquet garni, and peppercorns. Adjust heat to keep the liquid at a gentle tremor.
Simmer
Cook uncovered for 4 to 6 hours. Do not stir, as this disturbs the sediment.
Strain
Gently ladle the liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean container without pressing on the solids, which forces cloudy particles through the mesh.
Other turns to take.
Chicken Stock
Use raw chicken carcasses and necks; simmer for only 3 hours to avoid a bitter taste from the marrow.
Vegetable Stock
Omit bones and simmer aromatics like leeks, fennel, and mushroom stems for exactly 45 minutes for a bright, clean profile.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Cool the finished stock rapidly by placing the container in an ice bath before moving it to the refrigerator.
Discard the vegetables and bones after the first extraction; they have given all their flavor to the water.
If you have a clear layer of fat on top after chilling, leave it there—it acts as a natural seal until you are ready to use the stock.
The ones that keep coming up.
Should I add salt to my stock?
No. Always leave the stock unsalted so you can season your final dish appropriately without risking it becoming too salty as the stock reduces.
Can I reuse the bones?
Once they have been simmered for hours, the bones have surrendered their collagen and flavor. They are spent and should be discarded.
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