Making Clear Consommé
A consommé is not merely a broth; it is a technical exercise in patience and thermal management. The goal is a liquid so clear you can read newsprint through it, achieved only by disciplined temperature control and a steady hand.
Clarification requires cold foundations.
The stock must be completely chilled and degreased before starting. If your base is warm, the raft will fail to form, and you will end up with a cloudy soup.
- Heavy-bottomed pot
- Fine-mesh sieve
- Cheesecloth
- Large whisk
- Ladle
What goes in.
- 2 qtchilled, high-quality beef or chicken stock
- 1 lblean ground beef, very cold
- 4large egg whites, lightly beaten
- 2carrots, finely diced
- 2leeks (white part only), washed and thinly sliced
- 2celery stalks, finely diced
- 1whole tomato, crushed
Creating the Filter
The mixture of meat, egg whites, and vegetables acts as a magnetic filter. You must stir it into the cold liquid and maintain a gentle simmer until the raft sets firm.
The method.
Prepare the clarification mix
In a bowl, combine the ground meat, egg whites, and diced vegetables. Mix with your hands until the whites are fully incorporated into the meat.
Integrate with stock
Whisk the cold stock into the meat mixture in your pot. Place over medium heat, whisking constantly to ensure the meat does not stick to the bottom.
Form the raft
As the stock reaches a simmer, the proteins will begin to rise. Stop stirring the moment you see the raft begin to solidify on the surface. Cut a small chimney hole in the center to allow steam to escape.
Simmer gently
Reduce heat to the lowest possible setting. Let the consommé bubble up through the chimney for 60 minutes. Do not let it boil, or the raft will break.
Strain
Line a sieve with four layers of damp cheesecloth. Very carefully ladle the clear liquid through the cloth without disturbing the raft. Avoid squeezing the raft, as this forces impurities back into the liquid.
Other turns to take.
Chicken Consommé
Substitute lean ground chicken breast for the beef, keeping all other ingredients the same.
Mushroom Essence
Add 4 ounces of finely chopped dried porcini mushrooms to the raft mixture for a deep, earthy depth.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Keep your meat and egg whites chilled until the second you add them to the pot.
If the liquid remains cloudy, your heat was likely too high or you stirred too late.
Salt sparingly at the start; the flavors intensify significantly as the liquid clarifies and reduces.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I reuse the raft?
No. The raft has collected all the fats and impurities from the stock and should be discarded.
What do I do if the raft breaks?
If the raft sinks or cracks, you can attempt to strain it through a fresh cloth, but it is rarely possible to regain full clarity once the raft is compromised.
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