Food EditionCookFrenchDinnerChoosing and Using Italian Cheeses
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French · Dinner

Choosing and Using Italian Cheeses

The secret to Italian cooking is understanding what a cheese adds to the plate beyond just a salty note. Whether it is adding structure to a sauce or a necessary lactic punch to a salad, the right cheese completes the work you have already put in.

Before you start

Read the label for origin and grade.

Look for protected designation labels which ensure the cheese was produced using traditional methods in its home region. Avoid pre-grated bags if you want real texture.

  • Microplane grater
  • sharp paring knife
  • cheese wire
Ingredients

What goes in.

  • VariesParmigiano-Reggiano (aged 24 months)
  • VariesPecorino Romano (sheep's milk)
  • VariesFresh Mozzarella (cow or buffalo milk)
  • VariesGorgonzola (dolce or piccante)
  • VariesRicotta (fresh, strained)
The key technique

Use a fresh wedge every time

Anti-caking agents in pre-shredded cheese prevent a smooth melt; always grate your own wedge to get the cheese to bind properly with the emulsified fats in your sauce.

Step by step

The method.

  1. Identify the primary function

    Use hard cheeses for finish or thickening, semi-soft for melting, and fresh for moisture.

  2. Assess the milk source

    Cow milk provides a mild, nutty profile; sheep milk adds a sharp, aggressive tang that stands up to heavy tomato sauces.

  3. Store for longevity

    Wrap hard cheeses in parchment paper rather than plastic to allow the cheese to breathe and prevent mold growth.

Tips & troubleshooting

When it doesn't go to plan.

Tip

Discard the rind of aged cheeses into your stock pot for an extra layer of depth.

Tip

Bring fresh cheeses to room temperature before serving to allow the fats to soften.

Tip

Never cook fresh ricotta at high heat, or it will turn grainy and release too much water.

Questions

The ones that keep coming up.

Can I substitute Pecorino for Parmesan?

You can, but expect a much saltier result with a sharper bite. Use half the amount of Pecorino compared to Parmesan.

How do I know if the mozzarella is high quality?

Check the liquid in the container; it should be clear. The cheese itself should have a slight sheen and a firm, springy texture.

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