Mastering Emulsified Butter Sauces
An emulsified butter sauce relies on the tension between water-based aromatics and the milk solids in butter. It is a slow, rhythmic process that turns simple components into a thick, opaque velvet.
Temperature control is your only goal.
If the sauce gets too hot, the butter melts into clear grease; if it gets too cold, the butter remains solid chunks. Keep the pan off the burner as you whisk.
- small stainless steel saucepan
- balloon whisk
- tongs
- fine-mesh sieve
What goes in.
- 1/4 cupdry white wine or white wine vinegar
- 1 tbspshallot, minced
- 8 tbspcold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
- 1 pinchkosher salt
Whisking at the edge of heat
Keep the sauce moving constantly while adding butter one cube at a time. Do not add the next cube until the previous one has completely emulsified into the liquid.
The method.
Reduce the base
Combine wine and shallots in the saucepan over medium-high heat. Let it bubble until only about a tablespoon of liquid remains.
Temper the heat
Lower the heat to the absolute minimum setting or pull the pan off the burner entirely. Add the first two cubes of butter and whisk vigorously until incorporated.
Build the emulsion
Continue adding butter cubes one or two at a time. If the mixture looks like it is turning into oil, immediately remove it from the heat and whisk in a teaspoon of cold water or cream to stabilize.
Finish
Once all butter is incorporated, the sauce should look like thick, opaque cream. Strain out the shallots if you prefer a smooth finish, or leave them for texture.
Other turns to take.
Beurre Rouge
Substitute a full-bodied red wine and add a sprig of thyme during the reduction.
Lemon Beurre Blanc
Replace the wine with fresh lemon juice for a sharp, bright sauce intended for white fish.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Use a heavy-bottomed pan to prevent hot spots that can break the emulsion.
Keep your butter in the refrigerator until the very last second before you start mounting it.
If the sauce breaks and oil pools on the surface, discard a small amount of the sauce and whisk in a tablespoon of cold heavy cream to re-bind the fats.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I hold the sauce for later?
These sauces do not hold well. They are meant to be made and served immediately. If you must, keep it in a warm—not hot—spot, but do not reheat it.
Why did my sauce turn into clear oil?
The pan was likely too hot. When butter reaches a certain temperature, the fat separates from the water and solids. You need to keep the emulsification process below the point where the butter fully liquifies.
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