Classic Pesto Genovese
Making pesto by hand is a sensory exercise in rhythm. When you work the ingredients against the stone, you aren't just chopping; you are coaxing the herbaceous, spicy, and nutty notes into a singular, cohesive sauce.
Temperature and motion matter
Keep your basil leaves dry and cool. The faster you work, the less chance you have of the heat of your hands oxidizing the leaves and turning the sauce a dull khaki color.
- Marble mortar
- Wood pestle
- Chef's knife
What goes in.
- 2 cupsfresh Genovese basil leaves, washed and dried
- 1/3 cuppine nuts, lightly toasted
- 2 clovesgarlic, peeled and smashed
- 1/2 cupParmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated
- 2 tbspPecorino Sardo, freshly grated
- 1/2 cupextra virgin olive oil, preferably Ligurian
- 1/2 tspcoarse sea salt
Circular Pressure
Use a rotational, circular motion with the pestle rather than a pounding motion. You want to crush the basil against the side of the mortar to extract the emerald oil, not shred it.
The method.
Create the garlic base
Place the salt and garlic cloves into the mortar. Grind them together until you have a smooth, ivory-colored paste.
Incorporate the nuts
Add the pine nuts to the mortar and grind them until they are fully integrated with the garlic. The mixture should become pasty and thick.
Add the basil
Add the basil leaves in small batches. Grind each batch using the circular motion until the leaves have broken down into a fine, bright green pulp.
Emulsify with cheese and oil
Stir in the grated cheeses. Slowly drizzle the olive oil into the mortar while continuing to stir, creating a stable, creamy consistency.
Other turns to take.
Walnut Pesto
Replace pine nuts with lightly toasted walnuts for a deeper, more robust flavor profile.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Never use a food processor if you can help it; the metal blades heat the basil too quickly and oxidize the sauce.
If you must use a processor, chill the bowl and blades in the freezer for 30 minutes before starting.
Add a tablespoon of the starchy pasta water to the sauce just before tossing it with your pasta to help it coat the noodles evenly.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I store this for later?
Pesto oxidizes quickly. If you have leftovers, place the sauce in a small jar and cover the top completely with a thin layer of olive oil to seal it from the air before refrigerating.
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