Clarifying Consommé
A consommé is the test of a kitchen's patience. Stripping a stock of its cloudiness requires a slow, controlled process that forces you to watch the pot, not the clock.
Start with a cold, defatted stock
The stock must be chilled and completely free of fat, otherwise the raft will fail to bind. Work with a wide, heavy-bottomed pot to ensure the raft has room to form properly.
- Heavy-bottomed Dutch oven
- Fine-mesh sieve
- Cheesecloth
- Ladle
- Large mixing bowl
What goes in.
- 2 qtchilled, high-quality chicken or beef stock
- 1 lbextra-lean ground meat (same type as the stock)
- 4large egg whites, room temperature
- 1 cupmirepoix (carrots, celery, onions), finely diced
- 2leeks, white parts only, thinly sliced
Binding the Impurities
The egg whites act as a magnet for proteins and sediment. As they coagulate, they rise to the surface, bringing every floating speck of debris with them.
The method.
Prepare the raft mixture
In a large bowl, whisk the egg whites until frothy. Mix in the ground meat and vegetables until well combined.
Incorporate the stock
Pour the cold stock into the pot and stir in the raft mixture. Place the pot over medium-low heat.
Watch the rise
Stir the mixture gently to prevent sticking as it heats. Once a thick, grayish layer forms on the surface, stop stirring immediately.
Cut the chimney
Use a ladle to carefully poke a small hole through the center of the raft. This chimney allows the liquid to bubble through without breaking the structure of the raft.
Simmer gently
Maintain a very low heat. The liquid should barely move through the chimney. Simmer for 60 to 90 minutes until the liquid below looks perfectly clear.
Strain
Line a sieve with damp cheesecloth. Gently ladle the consommé through the cloth, being careful not to push down on the raft or cloud the liquid.
Other turns to take.
Mushroom Consommé
Replace the meat with finely minced cremini or dried porcini mushrooms for a deep, earthy result.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Never let the liquid reach a rolling boil; high agitation will break the raft and ruin the clarity.
Add a splash of tomato paste to the raft mixture if you want a deeper color.
If the consommé isn't perfectly clear after the first strain, repeat the process with a fresh egg white.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why did my raft break?
You likely used too much heat or stirred after the raft had begun to solidify.
Can I use a fat-filled stock?
No. Fat will prevent the egg whites from bonding to the proteins, and your consommé will remain greasy and cloudy.
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