Mastering Pâte à Choux
This is the structural foundation for eclairs, cream puffs, and gougères. Because it relies on steam rather than chemical leaveners to rise, the timing of the addition of eggs is the single factor that determines whether your pastries puff or collapse.
Control the steam
Keep the oven door closed throughout the baking process. If you open it too early, the drop in temperature will deflate the rising pastries instantly.
- heavy-bottomed saucepan
- wooden spoon
- stand mixer or large bowl with whisk
- piping bag with plain round tip
- baking sheet lined with parchment
What goes in.
- 125 mlwater
- 125 mlwhole milk
- 115 gunsalted butter, cubed
- 1/2 tspfine sea salt
- 150 gall-purpose flour, sifted
- 4 to 5large eggs, room temperature
Adjusting the egg count
Egg size varies, so do not add the final egg all at once. Watch the dough's sheen; it should be smooth, glossy, and thick enough to hold a firm peak.
The method.
Boil the base
Combine water, milk, butter, and salt in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a rolling boil until the butter is completely melted.
Cook the flour
Remove from heat and dump in the flour all at once. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until combined, then return to medium heat for two minutes, stirring constantly to dry out the excess moisture. A thin film should form on the bottom of the pan.
Incorporate eggs
Transfer the dough to a mixer bowl. Beat on low speed for a minute to release steam. Add eggs one by one, beating thoroughly after each addition. Only add the final egg if the dough requires more moisture to reach the V-shape consistency.
Pipe and bake
Pipe mounds onto the parchment-lined sheet. Bake at 200°C for 10 minutes, then lower the heat to 180°C for another 20 minutes until the shells are golden and feel hollow when lifted.
Vent the steam
Pierce the side of each puff with a paring knife immediately upon removing from the oven. This allows trapped steam to escape so the interior stays dry.
Other turns to take.
Gougères
Fold 100g of grated Gruyère and a pinch of black pepper into the dough after the final egg is incorporated.
Craquelin Topping
Top each piped mound with a thin disc of chilled butter-sugar-flour dough to create a crisp, uniform exterior crust.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If you are not using the dough immediately, cover the surface with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming.
Bake two sheets at a time only if you have a convection fan, otherwise bake one at a time for even heat distribution.
If the dough is too runny, it will not hold its shape; if it is too stiff, it will not expand.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I freeze the piped dough?
Yes. Pipe the mounds onto a tray, freeze until solid, then transfer to a container. Bake them directly from frozen, adding about 5 minutes to the total baking time.
Why did my puffs flatten?
The most common culprit is too much liquid in the dough or opening the oven door during the first 15 minutes of baking.
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