Mastering Custard Bases
The difference between a silky crème anglaise and a scrambled mess is often just a matter of two degrees. Mastering this technique unlocks everything from ice cream bases to pastry cream.
Patience is your primary ingredient.
Keep a bowl of ice water nearby to stop the cooking immediately if you sense the eggs are starting to over-coagulate. Do not walk away from the stove.
- heavy-bottomed saucepan
- wire whisk
- heat-resistant silicone spatula
- fine-mesh sieve
- large bowl
What goes in.
- 2 cupsheavy cream or whole milk
- 4large egg yolks
- 1/2 cupgranulated sugar
- 1 pinchkosher salt
- 1 tspvanilla extract
Knowing when to stop
Dip a metal spoon into the custard and pull it out. Run your finger horizontally across the back of the spoon; if the line stays clean and the custard doesn't run, it is ready.
The method.
Heat the dairy
Pour the cream into the saucepan over medium heat. Bring it to a gentle simmer—small bubbles should form around the edges, but do not let it reach a full boil.
Whisk the yolks
While the cream heats, whisk the yolks, sugar, and salt in a bowl until the mixture is pale yellow and slightly thickened.
Temper
Slowly pour half of the hot cream into the egg mixture while whisking constantly. This brings the temperature of the eggs up gradually so they don't scramble.
Thicken
Return the egg-cream mixture to the saucepan over low heat. Stir continuously with a spatula, making sure to scrape the bottom and corners.
Strain
Once the custard passes the nappe test, immediately pour it through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl to remove any accidental bits of cooked egg.
Other turns to take.
Pastry Cream
Whisk 2 tablespoons of cornstarch into the yolks before tempering; this allows you to bring the custard to a boil to fully activate the starch.
Crème Brûlée
Use only heavy cream and increase the yolk count to 6, then bake in a water bath rather than cooking on the stovetop.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Always use a heavy-bottomed pan to prevent hot spots that can scorch the dairy.
If you see tiny lumps forming, pour the mixture through a sieve into a bowl set in an ice bath immediately.
Place plastic wrap directly on the surface of the finished custard while it cools to prevent a thick skin from forming.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why did my custard turn into scrambled eggs?
The heat was too high, or you left it on the burner for too long. If it's only slightly grainy, the sieve might save it; if it is fully curdled, you will need to start over.
Can I use low-fat milk?
The fat content in the dairy provides the necessary structure and mouthfeel. Using low-fat milk will result in a thin, watery custard.
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