Food EditionCookFrenchBreakfastMaking Proper Hollandaise Sauce
15 minIntermediateServes 4
French · Breakfast

Making Proper Hollandaise Sauce

There is no mystery to a proper Hollandaise, only temperature control. If the yolks get too hot, they scramble; too cool, and the butter won't emulsify. Keep your whisk moving and your attention on the pan.

Total time
15 min
Hands-on
15 min
Serves
4
Difficulty
Intermediate
Before you start

Respect the steam

Your bowl should never touch the simmering water below; the heat must be gentle and indirect. Have your clarified butter warm, not scalding, before you begin.

  • stainless steel mixing bowl
  • saucepan
  • balloon whisk
  • thermometer (optional)
Ingredients

What goes in.

  • 3 largeegg yolks
  • 1 tbspcold water
  • 1 tbspfresh lemon juice
  • 1/2 cupclarified butter, warm
  • to tastefine sea salt and cayenne pepper
The key technique

Constant agitation

The secret is the rate of addition. Start with just a few drops of butter, whisking until fully incorporated before adding the next, allowing the yolk proteins to bond with the fat.

Step by step

The method.

  1. Set up the station

    Bring an inch of water to a bare simmer in the saucepan. Place your mixing bowl on top to ensure it fits snugly without touching the water.

  2. Aerate the yolks

    Combine yolks, water, and lemon juice in the bowl. Whisk vigorously over the steam until the mixture lightens in color and doubles in volume, leaving a trail behind the whisk.

  3. Mount the butter

    Remove the bowl from the heat. Begin drizzling the warm clarified butter in drop by drop while whisking constantly. Once the base thickens, you can increase the stream of butter to a thin, steady thread.

  4. Season

    Taste and adjust with salt and a pinch of cayenne. If the sauce is too thick, whisk in a teaspoon of warm water to loosen it to the consistency of heavy cream.

Variations

Other turns to take.

Béarnaise

Replace the lemon juice with a reduction of vinegar, shallots, and fresh tarragon.

Mousseline

Fold in two tablespoons of lightly whipped heavy cream just before serving for an aerated, lighter texture.

Tips & troubleshooting

When it doesn't go to plan.

Tip

Keep a damp towel under your mixing bowl to keep it steady while you whisk.

Tip

If the sauce feels greasy, you added the butter too quickly; stop pouring and whisk in a small amount of warm water.

Tip

Hollandaise does not reheat well. Keep it in a thermos or a warm—not hot—place until you are ready to serve.

Questions

The ones that keep coming up.

Why did my sauce curdle?

The heat was likely too high or you added the butter faster than the yolks could absorb it. Remove from heat immediately and whisk in a teaspoon of cold water to rescue it.

Can I use cold butter?

No. The butter must be warm to ensure the emulsion holds. Cold butter will solidify and cause the sauce to separate.

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