Food EditionCookFrenchBreakfastMaking Cultured Butter
26 hoursIntermediateServes 1 pound
French · Breakfast

Making Cultured Butter

This is about patience. You are allowing the cream to transform itself through chemistry before you ever reach for a whisk.

Total time
26 hours
Hands-on
20 minutes
Serves
1 pound
Difficulty
Intermediate
Before you start

Temperature dictates everything

Keep your environment clean, as you are inviting bacteria to flourish. The cream must be at room temperature to ferment, but chilled once it is time to churn.

  • Glass jar with tight lid
  • Stand mixer with whisk attachment
  • Fine mesh strainer
  • Cheesecloth
  • Bowl of ice water
Ingredients

What goes in.

  • 1 quartHeavy whipping cream (no stabilizers)
  • 2 tbspCultured buttermilk or crème fraîche
  • 1/2 tspFine sea salt (optional)
The key technique

Controlling the Fermentation

Do not rush the culturing. The cream should smell slightly tangy and thick like yogurt before you begin churning.

Step by step

The method.

  1. Inoculate the cream

    Whisk the buttermilk into the heavy cream in a clean glass jar. Cover loosely and leave it on your counter at room temperature for 24 hours.

  2. Chill the culture

    Once the cream has thickened and smells sharp, move the jar to the refrigerator for at least 2 hours. Cold fat churns into butter; warm fat just becomes oily.

  3. Churn the butter

    Pour the cream into your stand mixer. Start on low, then move to medium-high. You will see the cream whip into stiff peaks, then suddenly lose structure as the buttermilk splashes out.

  4. Strain the buttermilk

    Pour the mixture through the cheesecloth. Collect the liquid; that is your cultured buttermilk. Save it for baking.

  5. Wash the butter

    Place the butter solids in a bowl of ice water. Use a wooden spoon to press and fold the butter. The water will turn cloudy. Drain and repeat with fresh ice water until the water remains clear.

  6. Finish and store

    Press all remaining water out of the butter using a spatula. Fold in salt if using. Wrap tightly and store in the refrigerator.

Variations

Other turns to take.

Herbed Butter

Fold in minced chives, parsley, or tarragon after the final washing stage.

Honey Butter

Incorporate a tablespoon of raw honey during the final kneading phase.

Tips & troubleshooting

When it doesn't go to plan.

Tip

If the mixer doesn't show separation after 10 minutes, the cream might be too cold or too warm; verify the temperature.

Tip

The buttermilk you drain off is potent; use it in pancakes or biscuits within a few days.

Tip

Be thorough with the washing stage. Any remaining buttermilk will cause the butter to spoil quickly.

Questions

The ones that keep coming up.

How long does this butter keep?

Kept in an airtight container in the refrigerator, it will stay fresh for about two weeks.

Why did my cream turn into a liquid mess?

You likely churned it too long or the temperature was too high, causing the butter to melt back into the buttermilk.