Mastering Egg Emulsions
An emulsion is the process of forcing two liquids that don't want to mix—like fat and the water content in eggs—into a stable, uniform suspension. You achieve this by breaking the fat into microscopic droplets and using the proteins and lecithin in egg yolks to coat those droplets, preventing them from coalescing back into a separate oily layer.
Temperature is your greatest ally or worst enemy.
Eggs should be at room temperature before you begin. If your eggs are cold, the fat will seize or the emulsion will break before it even sets.
- Heavy-bottomed stainless steel bowl
- Balloon whisk
- Kitchen towel to stabilize the bowl
- Dripper bottle or small measuring cup with a spout
What goes in.
- 2large egg yolks, room temperature
- 1 cupclarified butter or neutral oil, warmed to just above room temperature
- 1 tbspacid (lemon juice or white wine vinegar)
- pinchfine sea salt
Consistency of Addition
The first few drops of fat must be whisked in until fully absorbed before adding any more. Once the mixture thickens and looks like heavy cream, you can begin a slow, steady stream.
The method.
Prepare the base
Whisk the yolks and acid in your bowl until they lighten in color and increase slightly in volume. This creates the protein structure needed to grab the fat.
Begin the drop-by-drop phase
Add the fat one drop at a time, whisking vigorously. Stop and check that the fat has fully incorporated before adding the next drop.
Establish the emulsion
Once you have added about two tablespoons of fat and the mixture has thickened to a light custard consistency, you have established the base.
Stream in the remainder
Pour the remaining fat in a thin, continuous thread while keeping the whisk moving. If the sauce becomes too thick, whisk in a few drops of warm water to loosen it.
Other turns to take.
Hollandaise
Finish the base with warm clarified butter and a splash of lemon juice.
Mayonnaise
Use raw yolks and cold neutral oil, whisked until the mixture is thick and pale.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If the sauce breaks and looks oily or curdled, whisk a fresh egg yolk in a clean bowl and slowly drizzle the broken sauce into it.
Use a damp kitchen towel rolled into a ring under your bowl to keep it from sliding while you whisk.
Always use a whisk with thin wires; a thick balloon whisk creates too much air and can destabilize delicate emulsions.
The ones that keep coming up.
How do I know if the emulsion has failed?
The fat will separate from the yolk, leaving a greasy film on top of a curdled, liquid mess.
Does the speed of whisking matter?
Yes. Fast, consistent motion is what breaks the fat into the tiny droplets necessary for stability.
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