Salt Cod Brandade
This is a dish of patience and temperature. You are building a stable emulsion, much like a mayonnaise, using the muscle of the fish and the silkiness of good olive oil.
The soak is the work
The quality of your brandade depends entirely on how well you leach the salt from the cod. Start two days ahead.
- Heavy-bottomed saucepan
- Stiff wooden spoon or silicone spatula
- Large mixing bowl
What goes in.
- 1 lbdry salt cod
- 1 cupextra virgin olive oil
- 1/2 cupwhole milk
- 2 clovesgarlic, smashed
- To tastelemon juice
- To tastefreshly ground white pepper
Beating the Bond
The goal is to physically break the cod fibers into a paste while slowly forcing the oil to bond with the milk. Add your liquids in thin, alternating drizzles, ensuring each addition is fully absorbed before adding the next.
The method.
Soak the cod
Submerge the cod in a large bowl of cold water. Place in the refrigerator and change the water at least four times over 24 to 36 hours. Taste a small piece; it should be firm but no longer aggressively salty.
Poach
Drain the cod and place it in a pan with fresh water. Bring to a bare simmer—do not boil, or the fish will toughen. Cook for 10 minutes until it flakes easily.
Clean
Drain the fish and remove all skin and bones. Flake the meat into small pieces using your fingers, checking carefully for stray pin bones.
Warm the liquids
In a small saucepan, gently warm the olive oil and milk with the garlic cloves. Do not let it bubble; you just want the aromatics to infuse.
Emulsify
Place the flaked cod in a bowl. Start stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon. Begin adding the warm oil and milk in a slow, steady stream. Keep beating until the mixture turns pale, thick, and holds its shape.
Season
Remove the garlic. Fold in a squeeze of lemon juice and white pepper. Taste, adjust, and serve warm or at room temperature.
Other turns to take.
Potato-Based
Fold in one part cooked, riced potato to three parts cod for a lighter, more voluminous texture.
Gratin Style
Spread the finished brandade in a ceramic dish, top with breadcrumbs, and brown briefly under a broiler.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Use a mortar and pestle if you want a truly refined, silky texture.
If the brandade breaks (the oil separates), add a tablespoon of very hot water and beat vigorously to bring it back together.
Do not use salted butter; the cod contains residual salt that will quickly throw off the balance.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use a food processor?
You can, but pulse it cautiously. A machine tends to turn the fish into a gluey puree rather than the light, fibrous paste achieved by hand-beating.
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