Refried Black Beans
This is not about frying the beans twice; it is about the transformation of texture. When you push the beans into the hot fat, you are coaxing out a depth of flavor that a simple simmer cannot achieve.
Texture is earned in the pan
Use lard or bacon fat if you want a deeper flavor; vegetable oil works, but lacks the same mouthfeel. Have your mashing tool ready before you start the frying process.
- Heavy-bottomed skillet or Dutch oven
- Potato masher
- Wooden spoon
What goes in.
- 1 lbdried black beans, soaked overnight
- 3 tbsplard, bacon fat, or neutral oil
- 1medium white onion, finely diced
- 2 clovesgarlic, minced
- 1 tspground cumin
- 1.5 tspkosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1/2 cupreserved bean cooking liquid
Evaporating the water
The beans are done when they pull away cleanly from the sides of the pan. If they are still loose or runny, keep cooking over medium heat to drive off more water.
The method.
Cook the beans
Drain the soaked beans, place them in a pot with fresh water covering them by two inches, and simmer until soft enough to crush between your fingers, about 60-75 minutes.
Sauté the aromatics
Heat the fat in a wide skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until they turn translucent and start to brown at the edges. Stir in the garlic and cumin for 30 seconds.
Mash and fry
Add the drained beans to the skillet. Use the potato masher to break them down, gradually adding the reserved cooking liquid to reach your desired consistency.
Final thickening
Continue to stir and mash over medium heat. The beans will darken and thicken significantly as the liquid evaporates. Taste and add salt as needed.
Other turns to take.
Spicy
Sauté one minced serrano or jalapeño pepper along with the onion.
Creamy
Finish the beans with a tablespoon of crema or heavy cream stirred in at the very end.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Do not salt the beans until they are fully tender, or the skins will remain tough.
If you have extra time, leave the beans in the cooking liquid for 30 minutes after the heat is turned off to let them plump up.
Save more cooking liquid than you think you need; you can always add it, but you cannot remove it once the beans are dry.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use canned beans?
Yes. Rinse them thoroughly first. You will need about three 15-ounce cans, and they will only need about 10 minutes of cooking in the pan.
Why are my beans grainy?
Usually, this happens if the beans weren't cooked through enough initially. Ensure the beans are completely soft before you begin mashing.
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