Selecting and Preparing Seasonal Greens
Greens are at their peak when they haven't traveled far. Learn to spot the difference between leaves that are reaching for the sun and those that are already surrendering to the refrigerator shelf.
Freshness is a sensory check
Avoid any bundle with slimy edges or a damp, musty smell at the base of the stems. If the leaves are limp, they have already lost their structural water content.
- Large salad spinner
- Heavy-bottomed skillet
- Chef's knife
- Large basin
What goes in.
- 1 lbseasonal greens (kale, chard, collards, or spinach)
- 2 tbspneutral oil or rendered fat
- 2 clovesgarlic, thinly sliced
- 1 pinchsea salt
- 1 tspacid (lemon juice or cider vinegar)
Removing hidden grit
Submerge cut greens in a basin of cold water and swish them vigorously; let the grit settle to the bottom before lifting the leaves out, leaving the sand behind.
The method.
Trim and clean
Strip leaves from thick, woody stems. Wash in two changes of water and spin until bone-dry.
Heat the fat
Bring the skillet to medium-high heat. Add your oil or fat until it shimmers.
Aromatize
Drop in the garlic. Move it constantly for thirty seconds until it is pale gold, not brown.
Flash-cook
Add the greens in handfuls. Toss continuously with tongs for 3 to 5 minutes until the leaves are bright green and soft but still hold their shape.
Finish
Remove from heat immediately. Toss with salt and a splash of acid to brighten the flavor.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If your greens are very tough, like collards, slice them into thin ribbons before cooking to tenderize the fiber.
Do not crowd the pan; cook in batches if necessary so the greens sauté instead of boiling.
Save the stems from chard; chop them finely and add them to the pan two minutes before the leaves, as they take longer to soften.
The ones that keep coming up.
How do I know if my greens are too old?
Look at the cut ends of the stems. If they are brown, dry, or hollowed out, the plant is dehydrated and will have a bitter, stringy texture.
Can I use frozen greens instead?
Frozen greens are already blanched and contain significant trapped water; they are better suited for soups or braises than for a quick sauté.