Proper Mashed Potatoes
Good mashed potatoes rely on two things: the starch content of your potato and the temperature of your liquids. If you rush the drying process, you will end up with a gluey mess instead of light, airy clouds.
Start with cold water, not boiling.
If you drop potatoes into boiling water, the outside cooks before the center, leading to uneven texture. Begin in a pot of cold, heavily salted water so they cook from the inside out.
- large stockpot
- potato ricer
- saucepan
- silicone spatula
What goes in.
- 2 lbRusset potatoes, scrubbed clean
- 1 stickunsalted butter
- 1/2 cupheavy cream
- 1 tbspkosher salt, plus more for the water
Evaporating the steam
After draining the boiled potatoes, return them to the hot, empty pot over low heat for two minutes. You want to see a thin, chalky film form on the surface of the potatoes; this ensures they are dry enough to absorb the butter and cream.
The method.
Boil the potatoes
Place potatoes in the pot and cover with cold water by two inches. Add a generous palmful of salt. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer until a paring knife slides through the center without any friction.
Prep the liquids
While potatoes simmer, warm the butter and cream in a small saucepan over low heat until the butter is melted. Do not let the cream reach a hard boil.
Peel and rice
Drain the potatoes and peel them immediately while hot. Pass them through the ricer directly into the warm pot.
Emulsify
Pour the warm butter-cream mixture over the riced potatoes in a slow, steady stream. Use the spatula to gently fold the mixture together. Stop as soon as the liquid is incorporated to avoid overworking the starches.
Other turns to take.
Garlic Infused
Steep two smashed garlic cloves in the cream and butter while heating, then discard the cloves before pouring over the potatoes.
Brown Butter
Cook the butter in the saucepan until the milk solids turn a deep hazelnut color and smell toasted before adding the cream.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Always use a ricer or a food mill. A hand masher often leaves stubborn lumps that are impossible to work out.
Do not use a food processor; the blades will shatter the starch cells and turn your potatoes into a sticky, gummy paste.
If the potatoes sit for too long, keep them in a double boiler or a bowl set over a pot of simmering water to maintain their temperature.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use Yukon Golds instead?
Yes, but they result in a denser, creamier texture compared to the fluffy, light finish of a Russet.
Why did my potatoes turn gummy?
You likely overworked them or used a food processor, which releases too much starch.
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