Mastering Citrus Zest
Citrus zest acts as a flavor anchor in both cooking and baking. Once you learn to pull the oils out without the drag of the pith, you stop viewing fruit as a source of juice and start seeing it as a concentrated seasoning.
Wash and dry the fruit thoroughly.
Wax on store-bought fruit can trap debris and dull your tools. Scrub the skins under warm water and ensure they are completely bone-dry before you begin, or the zest will clump.
- Microplane or fine rasp grater
- Vegetable peeler
- Chef's knife
- Cutting board
Never grate in the same spot twice
Run the fruit across the microplane using a light, gliding motion. Once you see the white pith appear underneath, rotate the fruit immediately to a fresh, colored surface.
The method.
Select your tool based on the final texture
Use a microplane for fine, powdery zest that melts into batters or dressings. Use a vegetable peeler for wide, thick strips if you intend to infuse a liquid or candy the peel.
Harvest the zest
If using a microplane, hold the tool at a 45-degree angle. Move the fruit downward across the blades. Keep the pressure minimal—let the teeth do the work. If you are using a peeler, pull it in long, smooth strokes from pole to pole.
Clean the blade
A significant amount of zest often gets trapped on the underside of a microplane. Use a pastry brush or the back of a knife to scrape the oils back into your prep bowl.
Trim the pith
If you used a peeler and find white pith attached to the back of your strips, lay the strip flat on a board. Use a sharp paring knife to carefully scrape the pith away until the strip is translucent and flexible.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Always zest your fruit before you juice it; once the structure of the fruit is compromised, it is nearly impossible to grate.
If the zest is sticking to your grater, place a piece of plastic wrap over the teeth before zesting; you can then easily peel the wrap off with all the zest collected.
Store fresh zest in an airtight container with a pinch of sugar; this helps prevent the oils from oxidizing and keeps the zest from clumping.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use a regular box grater?
Only if you use the finest side. Be warned that the holes are often too large and will pull too much pith, resulting in a bitter flavor.
Why does my zest taste bitter?
You have harvested too much of the white pith. The white layer contains no oils and is composed primarily of structural plant fiber that serves no purpose in flavor.
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