Pumpernickel Bread
True pumpernickel comes from Westphalia in Germany and is traditionally made with coarse rye flour, sometimes whole rye berries, and baked for hours in a low oven. This version respects that tradition but works in a home kitchen. The dough is forgiving—it needs no shaping skill, just time. The bake is where the magic happens: steam and low heat turn something that looks like mud into bread with an almost black crust and a texture that holds together even when sliced thin.
This bread rewards overnight fermentation—plan accordingly.
Pumpernickel dough ferments in the fridge for 12 to 16 hours, which deepens flavor and makes the dough easier to handle. You'll shape it once, and it doesn't need to rise on the counter. The bake itself is straightforward: cover it, bake it low and slow, then finish it hot. You'll need a Dutch oven or covered baking vessel.
- Large mixing bowl
- Stand mixer (optional, but recommended—the dough is stiff)
- Dutch oven or covered baking vessel (at least 5-quart)
- Kitchen scale (highly recommended)
- Bench scraper
- Instant-read thermometer
What goes in.
- 350 gbread flour
- 150 gcoarse rye flour (pumpernickel flour if you can find it)
- 1 tbspunsweetened cocoa powder
- 1 tbspinstant coffee powder
- 1 tspsalt
- 1 tspcaraway seeds (optional, but traditional)
- ½ tspinstant yeast
- 320 mlwater, room temperature
Long cold fermentation builds the bread's character
Pumpernickel's flavor comes from time, not just ingredients. After mixing, the dough rests in the fridge for 12 to 16 hours. This slow fermentation develops acidity and depth that a quick rise cannot match. The cold also firms the dough, making it less sticky to handle when you shape it. Don't skip this step or rush it—it's not a workaround, it's the method.
The method.
Mix the dry ingredients.
In a large bowl, whisk together bread flour, rye flour, cocoa powder, instant coffee, salt, caraway seeds (if using), and instant yeast. Whisk for 30 seconds so the yeast and leavening agents distribute evenly and the cocoa breaks up any lumps.
Add water and mix until shaggy.
Pour room-temperature water into the dry mix. Using a wooden spoon or the dough hook of a stand mixer on low speed, stir until all the flour is hydrated and you have a rough, sticky mass. This should take 2 to 3 minutes by hand, or 1 minute in a mixer. Do not knead yet.
Knead for 10 minutes.
If mixing by hand, turn the dough onto a wet work surface (don't flour it—the dough is wetter than usual) and knead using wet hands or a bench scraper, folding the dough over itself repeatedly until it becomes cohesive and slightly less sticky. If using a stand mixer, continue on low speed for 8 to 10 minutes until the dough clears the bowl and wraps around the hook. The dough will remain very sticky; this is normal. You're not aiming for a smooth, elastic dough like white bread.
Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl.
Scrape the dough into a clean bowl lightly coated with oil. Cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel.
Refrigerate for 12 to 16 hours.
Place the bowl in the fridge. The dough will rise slightly and develop a faint sour smell—this is the fermentation at work. You can bake anytime after 12 hours; there's no need to let it come to room temperature first.
Preheat the oven and Dutch oven.
About 45 minutes before you plan to bake, place a Dutch oven (lid on) in the oven and preheat to 450°F. The vessel needs to be hot and steamy when the dough goes in.
Shape the dough.
Remove the dough from the fridge and turn it onto a work surface lightly dusted with flour. With wet hands, gently pull the dough into a loose round about 6 inches across. You're not shaping it as you would a boule—pumpernickel dough is delicate and dense. Just gather it into a rough shape. If it's very sticky, let it rest for 5 minutes before shaping.
Score the top.
Using a sharp knife or lame, make a single slash across the top of the dough, about ¼ inch deep. This helps it expand.
Transfer to the Dutch oven.
Carefully remove the hot Dutch oven from the oven. Lift the lid. Using a bench scraper, transfer the shaped dough to a piece of parchment, then use the parchment to lower it into the Dutch oven. The dough will hiss and steam—that's the signal it's working.
Bake covered for 35 minutes.
Replace the lid and bake at 450°F. The cover traps steam, which keeps the crust from hardening too fast and allows the interior to cook through gently. At 25 minutes, you can peek—the top should have risen slightly and begun to darken.
Remove the lid and finish baking.
After 35 minutes, remove the lid. The loaf should be dark brown or nearly black on top. Return it to the oven, uncovered, and bake for another 15 to 20 minutes until the crust is deep mahogany or charred in spots. The internal temperature should read 210°F when checked in the center with an instant-read thermometer.
Cool completely.
Remove the bread from the Dutch oven and place it on a wire rack. Let it cool for at least 1 hour before slicing. Pumpernickel is dense and continues to set as it cools. Slicing it while warm will compress the crumb.
Other turns to take.
Whole Grain Pumpernickel
Replace half the bread flour with whole wheat flour. The result is lighter in color but still dark and flavorful. The whole grains add a slight nuttiness and rougher texture.
Pumpernickel with Seeds
In addition to or instead of caraway, add 1 tablespoon each of sunflower seeds and pumpkin seeds to the dough. Add them during the initial mix. The seeds contribute a slight crunch and nuttiness.
Sourdough Pumpernickel
Replace the instant yeast with 75 grams of active sourdough starter (fed 4 to 8 hours before). Reduce water to 300 ml. The fermentation time remains the same. Sourdough pumpernickel has more pronounced tang and a slightly more open crumb.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Pumpernickel dough is supposed to be sticky. Don't add extra flour thinking something is wrong. Wet hands work better than flouring when handling it.
The cocoa and coffee don't make the bread taste like chocolate or coffee—they contribute color and a subtle depth. If you skip them, add 1 tablespoon of molasses instead for color and flavor.
Caraway seeds are traditional and worth seeking out, but the bread is fine without them. If you love caraway, use 1½ teaspoons instead.
Pumpernickel keeps longer than most breads because of its density and rye content. Wrap the cooled loaf in plastic and it will stay fresh for 5 to 7 days. You can also freeze it for up to a month.
A heavy Dutch oven (cast iron or enameled cast iron) holds heat longer and more evenly than thin metal. If you don't have one, a covered baking vessel works, but monitor the color more closely so it doesn't burn.
Slice pumpernickel with a serrated knife using a gentle sawing motion. A sharp chef's knife can tear the dense crumb.
Pumpernickel is excellent for open-faced sandwiches with cured meats, cheese, or spreads. Its density and slight sweetness balance rich toppings.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I skip the overnight fermentation?
You can, but the bread won't have the same depth of flavor. If you're in a hurry, you can let the dough ferment at room temperature for 4 to 6 hours instead, though the result will be lighter and less complex. The cold fermentation also makes the dough easier to handle.
My dough is too wet to handle. What did I go wrong?
Rye flour absorbs water differently than wheat flour, and the amount can vary by humidity and brand. If your dough is unmanageable, wet your hands instead of flouring the work surface—that's the traditional approach for sticky doughs. If it's truly runny after kneading, dust the surface lightly with rye flour (not bread flour) as you shape it.
Why is my pumpernickel pale instead of dark?
Make sure you used both cocoa and instant coffee, and that you measured them accurately. The dark color comes from these additions and from the long, hot bake. If you didn't use both, the bread will be brown instead of nearly black. Also, check that your oven temperature is accurate with an oven thermometer—a cool oven won't develop color.
Can I bake this in a loaf pan instead of a Dutch oven?
Yes, but you'll need to create steam another way. Place a roasting pan filled with hot water on the bottom rack of the oven, or spray the inside of the loaf pan with water just before the dough goes in. The crust won't be quite as chewy, but the interior will still be good. Reduce the baking time by about 5 minutes since a loaf pan conducts heat faster.
Can I shape pumpernickel into rolls instead of a round loaf?
Yes. Divide the dough into 8 pieces and gently round each one into a ball. Bake them together in the Dutch oven (they'll touch slightly) for 25 to 30 minutes covered, then 10 to 15 minutes uncovered. They'll bake faster than a whole loaf, so watch them carefully.
What's the difference between pumpernickel and regular rye bread?
Pumpernickel uses coarse rye flour, cocoa or coffee for color, and often a long, slow bake. Regular rye bread is lighter in color, made with lighter rye flour, and often has a more open crumb. Pumpernickel is denser and darker. Both use rye, but the formulas and techniques differ.