Choux Pastry
This is a versatile foundation that relies on physics rather than chemical leaveners. Once you master the consistency of the paste, you can shape it into puffs, long éclairs, or a crown-shaped Paris-Brest.
Dry the paste to gain volume
Your goal is to evaporate enough liquid during the initial cook so the eggs can incorporate without turning the dough into a soup. If the dough is too thin, the puffs will collapse into flat discs in the oven.
- Heavy-bottomed saucepan
- Wooden spoon
- Stand mixer or hand mixer
- Piping bag with a large round tip
- Baking sheet with parchment paper
What goes in.
- 1 cupwater
- 1/2 cupunsalted butter, cubed
- 1 tspsugar
- 1/2 tspsalt
- 1 cupall-purpose flour
- 4large eggs, room temperature
Checking the consistency
Lift your wooden spoon from the dough; the batter should fall off slowly, leaving a V-shaped trail hanging from the spoon. If it drops off immediately, it is too thin; if it stays stuck, add a little more beaten egg.
The method.
Boil the base
Combine water, butter, sugar, and salt in the saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a rolling boil until the butter is completely melted.
Add the flour
Remove from heat and dump the flour in all at once. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a ball and pulls away from the sides of the pan.
Dry the panade
Return the pan to medium-low heat for two minutes, stirring constantly. You want a thin film of dough to coat the bottom of the pan and the steam to stop rising aggressively.
Incorporate eggs
Transfer the dough to a mixing bowl. Let it cool for five minutes, then beat in the eggs one at a time. Wait until each egg is fully absorbed before adding the next.
Pipe and bake
Pipe mounds onto a parchment-lined tray. Bake at 400°F for 20 minutes, then lower the heat to 350°F for another 15 minutes until deep gold and firm to the touch.
Vent the steam
As soon as you pull the tray from the oven, pierce the side of each puff with a small knife to let the internal steam escape; this prevents the interior from becoming soggy.
Other turns to take.
Gougères
Fold 1/2 cup of grated Gruyère and a pinch of black pepper into the finished dough before piping for a savory bite.
Craquelin
Top each piped mound with a thin disc of sugar-butter-flour dough before baking to create a crisp, uniform exterior.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Use room temperature eggs so they emulsify into the warm dough more easily.
Do not open the oven door during the first 25 minutes of baking, or the steam pressure will drop and the shells will deflate.
If you are not using the dough immediately, cover the surface directly with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why are my puffs flat?
Usually, this happens because the dough wasn't dried out enough in the pan, or too much egg was added, resulting in a batter that couldn't support its own structure.
Can I freeze them?
Yes, bake them fully, let them cool, and freeze them in an airtight container. Re-crisp them in a 350°F oven for five minutes before filling.
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