Classic Choux Pastry
Mastering choux is about understanding the transition of the dough from a paste to an emulsion. When the flour hits the boiling liquid, it gelatinizes; when the eggs are added, you transform that starch into a glossy, pipeable dough.
Consistency is your primary indicator.
Do not rush the cooling of the cooked paste before adding eggs, or you will scramble them. Watch the sheen of the dough rather than just the number of eggs added.
- Heavy-bottomed saucepan
- Wooden spoon
- Stand mixer or sturdy spatula
- Piping bag
- Baking sheet
What goes in.
- 125 mlwater
- 125 mlwhole milk
- 115 gunsalted butter, cubed
- 1 tspgranulated sugar
- 1/2 tspsalt
- 150 gall-purpose flour, sifted
- 4large eggs, lightly beaten
Determining the right hydration
Lift your spatula from the dough; the mixture should fall slowly and form a 'V' shape on the edge of the spoon, hanging for a second before dropping.
The method.
Boil the base
Combine water, milk, butter, sugar, and salt in the saucepan over medium-high heat until the butter is melted and the liquid is at a rolling boil.
Add the flour
Remove from heat and pour in the flour all at once. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until a ball forms and pulls away from the sides of the pan.
Dry the paste
Return the pan to medium heat for two minutes, stirring constantly. You are looking for a thin film to form on the bottom of the pan; this evaporates excess moisture.
Emulsify
Transfer to a mixing bowl and let cool for five minutes. Add eggs one at a time, mixing fully after each. Stop when the dough achieves the V-test consistency, even if you have leftover egg.
Bake
Pipe onto a parchment-lined tray. Bake at 200°C for 15 minutes, then lower to 180°C for another 15-20 minutes until firm and deeply golden.
Vent
Pierce the side of each puff with a small knife to release steam immediately after removing from the oven; this prevents them from collapsing as they cool.
Other turns to take.
Gougères
Fold 100g of grated Gruyère and a pinch of cayenne into the finished dough before piping.
Craquelin
Top each piped puff with a thin, frozen disc of butter-flour-sugar crumble for a crisp, patterned exterior.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Use high-protein bread flour if you want a firmer structure that holds its shape better.
Do not open the oven door during the first 20 minutes, or the steam will escape and the puffs will deflate.
If the dough is too stiff, the puffs will be dense; if it is too runny, they will spread into flat pancakes.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I freeze the piped dough?
Yes. Pipe the rounds onto a tray, freeze until solid, then transfer to a bag. Bake straight from frozen, adding 5 minutes to the initial bake time.
Why did my puffs go soft after cooling?
The steam didn't fully evaporate. Always pierce the puffs as soon as they exit the oven and let them dry out in the turned-off oven with the door cracked.