Food Edition›Bake›French›Breakfast›Making Proper Scones
35 minIntermediateServes 8
French · Breakfast

Making Proper Scones

A good scone should be tall and light, with a shaggy exterior that crumbles when you break it open. Avoid the urge to over-knead the dough, which turns a tender biscuit into a dense, chewy puck.

Total time
35 min
Hands-on
15 min
Serves
8
Difficulty
Intermediate
Before you start

Keep everything ice-cold.

The temperature of your butter dictates the rise. If the kitchen is warm, pop your flour bowl in the freezer for ten minutes before starting.

  • large mixing bowl
  • pastry cutter or two table knives
  • baking sheet
  • parchment paper
  • round biscuit cutter
Ingredients

What goes in.

  • 3 cupsall-purpose flour
  • 1/2 cupgranulated sugar
  • 1 tbspbaking powder
  • 1/2 tspsalt
  • 3/4 cupcold unsalted butter, cubed
  • 2large eggs
  • 1/2 cupheavy cream, plus extra for brushing
The key technique

Minimal handling is everything

Once you add the liquid, stop as soon as the flour disappears. Fold the dough over itself only three or four times; this creates the layers that help the scone rise straight up in the oven.

Step by step

The method.

  1. Whisk dry ingredients

    Combine flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in your bowl. Ensure the baking powder is evenly distributed.

  2. Cut in the butter

    Use a pastry cutter to work the cold butter into the flour until you have pea-sized lumps. These lumps create steam pockets during baking.

  3. Add liquids

    Whisk eggs and cream together, pour over the flour, and stir with a fork just until a shaggy dough forms.

  4. Shape the dough

    Turn the dough onto a floured surface. Gently pat it into a one-inch thick circle. Do not use a rolling pin, as it compresses the layers.

  5. Cut and chill

    Use the cutter to stamp out rounds. Place them on a lined sheet and brush the tops with a light wash of heavy cream.

  6. Bake

    Bake at 400°F (200°C) for 15 to 18 minutes. They are ready when the tops are a deep golden brown and they feel firm to the touch.

Variations

Other turns to take.

Currant Scones

Add 3/4 cup of dried currants to the flour before adding the liquid.

Lemon Zest

Rub the zest of one lemon into the sugar with your fingers before adding it to the flour.

Tips & troubleshooting

When it doesn't go to plan.

Tip

Always push the cutter straight down into the dough and pull it straight back up; twisting the cutter seals the edges and prevents the scone from rising evenly.

Tip

Bake scones close together on the sheet; they support each other and rise higher.

Tip

If you want a shiny finish, brush the tops with a beaten egg yolk mixed with a splash of milk.

Questions

The ones that keep coming up.

Why are my scones hard?

Usually, this is a result of overworking the dough or using warm butter. Handle the dough like it is made of glass.

Can I make the dough ahead of time?

Yes. Cut the scones, place them on the tray, and chill them for up to an hour before baking. Cold dough creates a better rise.

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