Bougatsa with Semolina Custard
This is a study in texture. You want the phyllo to be crisp enough to crack under a fork while the custard remains stable and firm enough to hold its shape when sliced.
Master the temper
The custard must be completely cool before you assemble the pastry, or the steam will turn the phyllo into a soggy layer instead of a crisp one.
- Heavy-bottomed saucepan
- Whisk
- 9x13 baking pan
- Pastry brush
What goes in.
- 1 cupfine semolina
- 1 cupgranulated sugar
- 4 cupswhole milk
- 2 tbspunsalted butter
- 2large eggs, lightly beaten
- 1 tspvanilla extract
- 1 lbphyllo dough, thawed
- 1/2 cupunsalted butter, melted
Cooking the Semolina
Whisk constantly over medium heat until the mixture thickens into a heavy paste that ribbons off the whisk; if you stop whisking, the bottom will scorch instantly.
The method.
Prepare the cream
Heat milk, sugar, and semolina in a saucepan. Stir until thickened, then remove from heat. Temper in the eggs and vanilla, then stir in the 2 tablespoons of butter. Let it cool completely.
Layer the base
Brush your baking pan with butter. Lay down half of the phyllo sheets one by one, brushing each sheet with melted butter, allowing the edges to hang over the rim of the pan.
Fill and close
Pour the cooled custard into the center and spread evenly. Fold the overhanging phyllo edges over the top. Layer the remaining phyllo sheets on top, buttering each, and tuck the edges down into the sides of the pan.
Score and bake
Score the top layer into squares with a sharp knife, cutting only through the top few layers of pastry. Bake at 375°F (190°C) for 30–40 minutes until deeply golden.
Other turns to take.
Savory Bougatsa
Replace the sugar and vanilla with crumbled feta cheese and a pinch of black pepper in the filling.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Keep the phyllo covered with a damp towel while you work to prevent it from drying out and shattering.
Do not skip the scoring step; it allows steam to escape and ensures clean slices after baking.
Serve immediately with a heavy snowfall of powdered sugar and a generous amount of ground cinnamon.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I use puff pastry instead of phyllo?
Puff pastry is too heavy and fatty for this dish. Stick to thin phyllo to achieve the signature crunch.
Why is my custard runny?
You likely didn't cook the semolina long enough. It should be stiff, like a thick porridge, before you take it off the heat.
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