Classic Gougères
Gougères are savory choux pastry puffs folded with grated cheese. The secret lies in drying out the paste on the stove until a thin film coats the bottom of the pot, ensuring the structure can hold its lift in the oven.
Master the moisture
The steam inside the dough provides the rise. If you add eggs too quickly or keep the dough too wet, the puffs will collapse into dense, eggy discs.
- heavy-bottomed saucepan
- wooden spoon
- stand mixer or strong spatula
- piping bag with plain tip
- baking sheets
- parchment paper
What goes in.
- 1/2 cupwater
- 1/2 cupwhole milk
- 8 tbspunsalted butter, cubed
- 1 cupall-purpose flour
- 4large eggs, room temperature
- 1 1/2 cupsGruyère cheese, finely grated
- 1/2 tspsea salt
- 1/4 tspfreshly grated nutmeg
Cooking the dough
After adding the flour to the boiling liquid, keep it over medium heat while stirring vigorously for two minutes. You want to cook out the raw starch and create a smooth, unified ball that leaves a light sheen on the metal.
The method.
Heat the base
Combine water, milk, butter, and salt in the saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a rolling boil until the butter is completely melted.
Incorporate flour
Remove from heat and add all the flour at once. Stir until a rough ball forms. Return to the heat for 2 minutes, mashing the dough against the sides of the pan.
Add eggs
Transfer the dough to a mixer or bowl. Let it cool slightly for 3 minutes. Add eggs one by one, ensuring each is fully absorbed before adding the next. The dough should look glossy and fall from the spoon in a heavy 'V' shape.
Fold and pipe
Fold in the cheese and nutmeg. Transfer to a piping bag. Pipe 1-inch mounds onto a parchment-lined sheet, spacing them 2 inches apart.
Bake
Bake at 400°F (200°C) for 20 minutes. Lower the heat to 350°F (175°C) and bake for another 10-15 minutes until deep golden brown and firm to the touch.
Other turns to take.
Herb-infused
Fold in two tablespoons of finely minced fresh thyme or chives along with the cheese.
Sharp Finish
Swap the Gruyère for an aged Comté or a dry, sharp cheddar for a more aggressive salt profile.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Do not open the oven door during the first 20 minutes, or the steam will escape and the puffs will flatten.
If you don't have a piping bag, two spoons work fine; just aim for uniform rounds.
These are best served warm, straight from the oven.
The ones that keep coming up.
Can I freeze the dough?
You can pipe the mounds onto a baking sheet, freeze them until solid, and then store them in a bag. Bake them directly from frozen, adding 5 minutes to the initial bake time.
Why did my puffs go flat?
The most common culprit is too much egg, which makes the dough too runny to hold its shape, or taking them out of the oven before the internal structure has set.