Making Pão de Queijo
This is a bread born of necessity and chemistry, relying entirely on the starch rather than gluten for its lift. When pulled hot from the oven, the crust should have a thin, crisp shell that gives way to a soft, elastic core.
Mind the starch and the heat
Use sour cassava starch, not sweet, to get that signature tang and rise. Keep your dough sticky—don't be tempted to add more flour or the rolls will turn dense.
- Heavy-bottomed saucepan
- Stand mixer with paddle attachment
- Baking sheet
- Parchment paper
What goes in.
- 500gsour cassava starch (polvilho azedo)
- 250mlwhole milk
- 100mlwater
- 100mlneutral oil
- 2 tspsalt
- 2large eggs
- 250gcured minas cheese or parmesan, finely grated
Hydrating the starch
Bringing your milk, water, and oil to a rolling boil before adding the starch is essential; it gelatinizes the granules, creating the structure that allows the rolls to puff up in the oven.
The method.
Scald the liquids
Combine the milk, water, oil, and salt in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Wait until the liquid begins to foam up the sides of the pan.
Mix the base
Place the starch in a mixing bowl. Pour the boiling liquid over it and stir with a wooden spoon until it resembles a thick, shaggy paste. Let it cool for 10 minutes.
Incorporate eggs and cheese
Transfer to a stand mixer. Add eggs one at a time, beating until fully absorbed. Add the grated cheese last and mix until the dough is smooth, glossy, and very sticky.
Shape
Grease your palms with oil. Roll the dough into balls about the size of a golf ball and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
Bake
Bake at 400°F (200°C) for 20 to 25 minutes. They are done when they have grown significantly and developed a pale gold, firm crust.
Other turns to take.
Bacon-infused
Fold in a tablespoon of finely rendered bacon fat and crispy bits into the dough for a deeper, saltier profile.
Herbed
Add finely minced rosemary to the liquid base before boiling to infuse the starch with an earthy aroma.
When it doesn't go to plan.
If the dough sticks to your hands, rub a little more oil on them rather than dusting with flour.
You can freeze the shaped, raw dough balls on a tray and bake them straight from frozen; just add 5 minutes to the baking time.
Do not open the oven door during the first 15 minutes of baking, or the steam escape will cause them to collapse.
The ones that keep coming up.
Why did my pão de queijo come out dense?
You likely used sweet cassava starch instead of sour, or you didn't let the liquid reach a full boil before adding it to the starch.
Can I replace the cured cheese with mozzarella?
Mozzarella has too much moisture and not enough salt; it will result in a gummy texture. Stick to a hard, aged cheese.