Baking with Stone Fruit
Stone fruit softens into a jam-like consistency when exposed to prolonged heat, concentrated by the evaporation of its natural sugars. The secret is managing that juice so it stays inside the pastry rather than turning the bottom layer into paste.
Know your fruit's stage
Use fruit that is slightly firm to the touch; fruit that is already overripe will dissolve into a shapeless puree, losing the structural integrity needed for a clean slice.
- paring knife
- heavy-bottomed mixing bowl
- 9-inch pie dish or springform pan
- parchment paper
What goes in.
- 2 lbsstone fruit, pitted and sliced into 1/2-inch wedges
- 1/2 cupgranulated sugar
- 2 tbspall-purpose flour or cornstarch
- 1 tsplemon juice
- 1/4 tspsalt
Toss and Wait
Combine your sliced fruit with the sugar and starch at least 15 minutes before baking. This draws out excess surface moisture, allowing you to pour off the liquid or incorporate it into a reduction so the base remains crisp.
The method.
Prepare the fruit
Remove pits and slice the fruit to a uniform thickness. If you are using cherries, halve them; for peaches or nectarines, keep wedges at 1/2-inch to avoid them falling apart completely.
Macerate
In a bowl, toss the fruit with sugar, starch, salt, and lemon juice. Let it stand for 15 to 20 minutes while you prepare your dough or batter.
Arrange
If using a pie dish, drain the excess liquid that has pooled at the bottom of the bowl into a small saucepan. Reduce that liquid over high heat until syrupy, then brush it back over the fruit before closing the crust.
Bake
Place in a preheated 375°F oven. Bake until the juices bubbling around the edges are thick and dark, not thin and watery, which usually takes 45 to 55 minutes.
Other turns to take.
Almond pairing
Add 1/4 teaspoon of almond extract to the fruit mix; the nutty profile draws out the floral notes inherent in stone fruit pits.
Spiced stone fruit
Fold in a half-teaspoon of ground cardamom or freshly grated ginger to cut through the sweetness of late-season varieties.
When it doesn't go to plan.
Place your pie dish or cake pan on a preheated baking sheet to ensure the bottom crust sets before the fruit releases its juices.
If the fruit looks pale, it is not done; look for the syrup to caramelize to a deep amber color around the edges.
Let the bake rest for at least one hour after removing it from the oven to allow the pectin to fully set the fruit juices.
The ones that keep coming up.
Should I peel the fruit?
For nectarines and cherries, leave the skin on for texture and color. For peaches, the skin can be tough; if the fruit is very ripe, you can leave it, but for a polished result, blanch them in boiling water for 30 seconds to slide the skins off easily.
Can I mix different stone fruits?
Yes, but match them by texture. Keep plums and peaches together, or cherries with nectarines, so they cook down at similar rates.
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