grow · Grow
How to Grow Squash from Seed
Squash grows fast and easy from direct-sown seed in warm soil. Plant after your last frost date, give them space to sprawl, and keep the soil consistently moist. Summer squash produces in 50-60 days, winter squash needs 90-120 days to mature.
- Total time: 7-14 days
- Difficulty: Easy
Ingredients
- 3-4 squash seeds per hill
- compost or aged manure soil amendment
- straw or shredded leaves mulch
Step by step
- Wait for the right time. Plant squash seeds when soil temperature reaches 65°F and all danger of frost has passed. Cold soil will rot the seeds before they sprout.
- Prepare the planting area. Choose a sunny spot with rich, well-draining soil. Work in compost or aged manure if your soil is heavy clay or sandy. Squash needs room to spread — plan for 6-8 feet between hills.
- Plant the seeds. Make small hills of soil about 6 inches across. Plant 3-4 seeds per hill, spacing them 2 inches apart and 1 inch deep. Cover with loose soil and water gently.
- Keep soil moist. Water consistently but don't flood the seeds. The soil should feel like a wrung-out sponge. Seeds typically germinate in 7-14 days when soil stays warm.
- Thin the seedlings. When seedlings have their first true leaves, cut the weakest ones at soil level, leaving the strongest 2 plants per hill. Don't pull them — you'll disturb the remaining roots.
- Mulch around plants. Once plants are 6 inches tall, spread straw or shredded leaves around them. This keeps weeds down, holds moisture, and prevents soil-borne diseases from splashing onto leaves.
- Water deeply and regularly. Give plants 1-2 inches of water per week, soaking the soil deeply rather than frequent shallow watering. Water at soil level to keep leaves dry and prevent disease.
- Watch for flowers and fruit. Plants produce male flowers first, then female flowers with tiny fruit at the base. Hand-pollinate if you don't see bees by using a small paintbrush to transfer pollen from male to female flowers.
Tips & troubleshooting
- Plant squash seeds directly in the garden — they don't transplant well because of their sensitive roots
- Choose bush varieties for small spaces, vining varieties for maximum production
- Harvest summer squash when young and tender with glossy skin — check daily once production starts
- Let winter squash cure on the vine until the stem dries and the rind hardens
- Plant different varieties away from each other if you plan to save seeds, as they cross-pollinate easily
Variations
- Container growing. Use large containers (at least 20 gallons) for bush varieties. Vining types need even bigger pots or won't produce well.
- Vertical growing. Train vining varieties up strong trellises or fences. Support heavy fruits with slings made from old t-shirts or pantyhose.
- Succession planting. Plant summer squash every 2-3 weeks through mid-summer for continuous harvest. Stop 10-12 weeks before your first expected fall frost.
Questions
- When should I start squash seeds indoors?
- Don't start them indoors unless absolutely necessary. Squash has a taproot that doesn't like being disturbed. If you must start indoors, use biodegradable pots and transplant the whole pot 2-3 weeks before your last frost date.
- Why are my squash plants flowering but not producing fruit?
- Early flowers are usually all male. Female flowers appear later and have a small swelling at the base. If you have both types but no fruit, you likely need better pollination — try hand-pollinating with a small brush.
- How do I know when winter squash is ready to harvest?
- The stem should be dry and woody, the rind should be hard enough that you can't dent it with your fingernail, and the color should be deep and uniform. The spot where it touches the ground turns from white to cream or tan.
- Can I save seeds from my squash?
- Yes, but only from open-pollinated varieties, not hybrids. Let the fruit fully mature, scoop out seeds, clean off all pulp, and dry them completely before storing. Seeds stay viable for 4-6 years.