cook · side · french

How to Make Perfect Aioli

Aioli isn't mayonnaise with garlic stirred in. It's an ancient Mediterranean sauce that transforms a few ingredients into something that coats the back of a spoon and makes everything it touches better.

Before you start

Temperature matters more than technique

All ingredients should be at room temperature. Cold oil won't emulsify properly, and cold eggs make the process much harder.

Ingredients

The emulsion build

Oil speed determines success

Start with individual drops of oil while whisking constantly. Only switch to a thin stream after the mixture visibly thickens and lightens in color.

Step by step

  1. Crush garlic with salt. In a mortar and pestle, pound garlic cloves with coarse salt until you have a smooth paste. The salt acts as an abrasive and draws out garlic oils. If using a garlic press, mince the pressed garlic with salt using the flat side of your knife.
  2. Combine base ingredients. Add egg yolks to the garlic paste in a large bowl. Whisk together until well combined and slightly pale, about 30 seconds.
  3. Begin oil addition. While whisking constantly, add oil one drop at a time. This sounds tedious but it's crucial for the first 2-3 tablespoons. The mixture will look thin and oily at first.
  4. Watch for the turn. After about 3 tablespoons of oil, the mixture will suddenly thicken and turn pale yellow. This is your emulsion forming. Once this happens, you can add oil in a thin, steady stream while continuing to whisk.
  5. Finish and season. Continue adding oil until you've used it all and the aioli is thick enough to coat a spoon. Whisk in lemon juice and taste for salt. The aioli should be creamy but not stiff.

Tips & troubleshooting

Variations

Questions

Can I make aioli in a food processor?
Yes, but pulse carefully and add oil very slowly through the feed tube. Hand whisking gives you more control over the emulsion.
Why did my aioli break?
Usually from adding oil too quickly before the emulsion forms, or from using cold ingredients. Temperature and patience are everything.
How thick should finished aioli be?
Thick enough to coat the back of a spoon but still spreadable. It should hold peaks when you lift the whisk but not be stiff like butter.

Further reading